*tasting note at the bottom

**Part of the ‘Spanish Value Experiment‘

Another random selection for the Spanish Value Experiment, and next up is Clos Lojen 2016, a 100% Bobal from DO Manchuela in east-central Spain. Bobal is the 2nd most planted red variety in Spain yet so little of it reaches the heights of which it’s undoubtedly capable. With a naturally deep colour, high levels of tannins, high acidity and an ability to be exciting as either a blending partner or a mono-varietal wine, you’d think there’d be more of it around in quality production. However, it’s blessing is also its curse and a great deal of is destined to be harvested at enormous yields and made into simple, local wines or shipped off in bulk. As the late, great John Radford put it in 2006: “The trouble is that the wines have a low-price public perception, so we’re probably going to have to wait for some maverick winemaker to hit the headlines before most bodegas make the leap”. Given that the majority of Bobal is planted in the harsh, arid vineyards of central Spain, littered with unambitious, local co-operatives, it’s going to need quite some momentum.

Fast forward 12 years and Bobal still isn’t setting Spain, let alone the world, on fire. However, there have been some encouraging movements and not least from the creator of Clos Lojen, Juan Antonio Ponce. Having learnt his trade under none other than Telmo Rodriguez, he set about turning his families vines into an experimental project in 2004. The rest, as they say, is history as their vineyards have expanded to 17 hectares within DO Manchuela, as well as leasing particular plots from other growers on long, 10 year contracts, partly to avoid the old vines being uprooted to make way for more profitable crops. What strikes me most about this producer, as I look at their portfolio, is just how affordable the wines are. Clos Lojen fits into my experiment as it’s well below the €10 thresh-hold, but they barely have a wine above €20 a bottle. This is quite remarkable, and it turns out, intentional. To steal a quote from a Spanish Wine Lovers article in 2016, Juan says “I want my wines to be bought by any ordinary person. We must be able to reach consumers in a straight-forward manner otherwise beer will cannibalize our markets.” Admirable.

Tasting Note

100% Bobal from 30-50 year old bush vines, from 6 different parcels, 800m above sea level. All viticulture is biodynamic. 7 months ageing in various sizes of oak; foudres to barriques. 12.5% ABV

Surprisingly light in colour and very pretty on the nose: clean, fresh blackberries and raspberries, violets and sweet herbs. Zesty and fresh on the palate, with firm tannins and the same youthful flavours supported by vibrant, persistent acidity. Remarkably intense and interesting for an entry level wine; I’m a fan and at this price, slightly annoyed at myself not to have tasted it sooner! Outstanding value. 91Pts.

Purchased from Vinissimus for €6.90