Wine Review

Wine Review: Bodega Barbadillo ‘Quadis’ Crianza 2014

A photo of Quadis Crianza 2014

*tasting note at the bottom

**Part of the ‘Spanish Value Experiment

We’re heading all the way to the south of Spain for wine #3, Quadis Crianza 2014, made in Sanlucar de Barrameda and a relatively new production by Bodega Barbadillo. For those of you familiar with Sherry you’ll know the name Barbadillo, particularly famed for their excellent Manzanilla and En Rama Sherry. A relatively recent development here is for Sherry Bodegas to start taking an interest in producing dry, table wine; typically red and encapsulated within the larger VdlT Cadiz appellation. This seems partly due to looking for new and improved streams of revenue, Sherry still being one of the most under-rated drinks in the world, and partly due to a better understanding of the vineyards around Andalucia. I recall reading an interesting interview with Luis Perez of Bodega Luis Perez contemplating making Shiraz in a rich, powerful, Barossa Valley style!

The challenge is, of course, to balance the intense heat of the region with the correct level of phenolic ripeness vs sugar accumulation/acidity levels. Most of the vineyards are recently planted with red varieties, making this trickier still, as young vines are less reliable in challenging weather conditions and need far more attention as a result. Quadis Crianza is the result of Baradillo taking on this challenge; a blend of 4 grape varieties aged in a mixture of French and American oak for 11 months. Finding information about the wine is relatively straight-forward, and seems to focus a lot on the minor grape in the blend, Tintilla, which is the same grape variety as Graciano in Rioja. There’s evidence to suggest that plantings of this grape have existed in Jerez for far longer than Rioja, yet from the few examples I’ve tried, the intense heat does seem to be a problem in maintaining freshness in varietal wines. So how will it fare as part of a blend? There’s only one way to find out. (There is also a Quadis joven wine)

Tasting Note

Tempranillo, Petit Verdot, Syrah and Tintilla Rota (Graciano) in undefined quantities from Baradillo’s vineyards around Jerez and Sanlucar de Barrameda. Fermented in stainless steel and aged in a mixture of older French and American oak barrels for 11 months. 15% ABV

Dark and brooding in the glass, already with a slight bricking towards the rim. Jammy and dried black fruits dominate the nose although toasted wood, tar, dried tobacco and muddled spices do reveal themselves with some aeration. Big, bold and meaty on the palate with the acidity not quite up to the task of integrating the alcohol, and the masses of tannins ripe but slightly drying. A bit of an unwieldy brute, this one, with something dense and protein-based needed to keep it in line. 82Pts.

Purchased from Vinissimus for €7.60

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