The sparkling wine of the week is another Cava and better yet, it’s another Sumoll based Cava which makes for a nice comparison with the Clos Lentiscus Sumoll Reserva reviewed last week. Sumoll is an interesting grape that I very much enjoy as a still wine, yet seems to be finding itself used in sparkling wine production more and more, which I can only assume is due to its naturally high levels of acidity. Native to the Penedes region and rarely found further afield (some plots exist in the Canary Islands) this is becoming increasingly prominent as wine-makers look to rediscover the heritage of wine production here, focusing on indigenous varieties in a variety of projects.

Enter: Mas Candi. Bodega Mas Candi is a project between friends in DO Penedes, which isn’t entirely dissimilar to the Growers Champagne movement. They had previously sold most of their grapes to large Cava producers and instead decided, by combining parts of their production, to start making the wine themselves. Started in 2006, the portfolio has expanded to include a variety of still wines as well as Cava, always focusing on indigenous grapes grown using biodynamic viticulture. Despite seeing the bottles in many local stores, I’d never picked up a bottle so this is a first for me!

Tasting Note

100% Sumoll from their estates in DO Penedes, macerated for 6 hours, pressed and fermented in stainless steel to make the base wine. Aged on its lees for 15 months with no dosage. 12% ABV

A delicate orange colour and quite frothy in the glass, yet very restrained and light on the nose. There are hints of pink grapefruit, orange pith and a touch of smoke but no discernible autolysis and not a great deal of fruit character. Bone-dry on the palate with refreshing acidity, yet the same simple flavour characteristics and no complexity to speak of. Well balanced and surprisingly soft, fine bubbles; a reasonable sparkling wine but too simple and light for the price. 85Pts.

Purchased from Cuvee 3000 for €14.85