Established: 2014 (Showroom opened in December 2017)
Style of establishment: Wine Shop and Distribution
Price by the glass – NA
Price by the bottle – €7 to €550
Address – 251 Carrer Diputacio, Barcelona, 08007
Phone number – 932 72 61 87
Website: https://www.monvinicstore.com/
Opening Hours – Monday to Friday from 9:30am to 6pm
Closed on Saturdays and Sundays
Closed on public holidays
Monvinic Store is, as you might expect, located directly next to Monvinic restaurant and bar. Both are owned by Sergi Ferrer-Salat but ran as very different businesses, which makes for an even larger selection of wine than before; hurrah! The idea of the store first began in 2011 as a proposal by Delia Garcia, the current director and buyer for the business, yet didn’t open its doors until 2014 and first began as an online business mainly catering to restaurants and retailers around the city. At the tail end of December 2017, they opened a showroom directly next to Monvinic restaurant with the intention of opening up to walk-in customers as well.
Probably the most impressive thing about Monvinic Store, other than their incredible selection which I’ll cover next, is their focus on temperature control. From their larger cellar on the cusp of the Born to their huge, well maintained fridges inside the showroom itself, I’ve never once received a wine that has suffered at the hands of the unforgiving, Spanish weather. Most of the purchases are made directly from the wineries they work with and are shipped in temperature controlled conditions as well. All of this is expensive but makes a huge difference; one of the regular problems with restaurants, bars and private collections in Barcelona is that wine cooks in the hot, summer months. I’m very fond of a quote by the wine importer, Kermit Lynch, who eloquently describes it thus:
“The difference between a wine shipped at cellar temperature and one shipped in a standard container is not subtle. One is alive, the other cooked. I can taste the difference. And one never knows exactly how much the wine will suffer, because the climate en route cannot be predicted.” – Kermit Lynch
Whilst this means that the small selections of interesting wines from around the world can sometimes be priced at a premium, you know you’ll be receiving it in perfect condition. That, and the fact I’ve never had an issue exchanged a faulty bottle with the store (usually cork taint), makes me a very happy customer!
The Selection
I’m a huge fan of Monvinic in general, and I consider their store to house the most interesting wine selection in Barcelona. Delia’s philosophy is towards wines made in a minimal intervention style and that’s strongly reflected in the wines on show, yet the over-riding factor is always quality. Better yet, there’s wines from almost every corner of the wine-making world and I often cherry-pick high quality, slightly esoteric wines to add some excitement and flair to our monthly wine tastings as well as my own personal consumption. The best wine I’ve tried this year was the Castagna Genesis Syrah 2006, a biodynamically produced Syrah/Viognier blend, produced in small quantities and very hard to get hold of. Being able to purchase a mature bottle in Barcelona, in perfect condition, is quite remarkable.
With that in mind, this isn’t a place to come shopping for a lot of wine under the €8-10 thresh-hold. Whilst there are wines at this price point, the whole point of Monvinic Store is, in Delia’s own words, “A place where people can discover high quality, artesanal wines from across the world.” Expect the average price to be a little higher than most shops in the city. With that in mind, let’s have a look at their selection across some of the usual suspects:
The Old World
Spain: Spanish wine, as you might expect from a wine store in Barcelona, is the heart of the selection here. Better yet, it tends to be the most affordable! There’s a broad selection from across the country, mostly wines made in a minimal intervention style, encompassing everything from Galician reds to Sherry, from Cava to the wines of Madrid. At the very top end stand some bottles of older Vega Sicilia Unico, but the upper-middle (€35-70ish) part of the selection is mostly missing at the moment, as bottles have been sold and not replaced. Many of the more interesting ‘new wave’ of Spanish producers are represented here, so keep an eye out for Oxer Wines, Daniel Landi, Landi-Jimenez, Goyo Garcia, Fazenda Pradio and Envinate, amongst others.
France: The French selection at Monvinic Store used to be better, but that’s mostly because all the top Burgundy and most of the really interesting, low-hanging fruit has been snapped up (partly by yours truly) but there’s still a wealth of good wine here. However, it pays to be careful with your selections, particularly at the bottom end of the price range, where there’s so much diversity of style it’s hard to be sure what you’re buying. There’s lots of lesser known names here from the Loire Valley, the Rhone, Languedoc, Roussillon, Jura and Beaujolais. I’ve discovered some gems here over the years but also a lot of wine that’s just a bit too funky for me, so either go in with a clear idea of what you’re looking for, or make sure you ask Delia or anyone else working in the store. The real gem here at the moment is grower Champagne and there’s a lot to choose from, including some lovely, Pinot Meunier focused wines.
Germany: This is probably the best place to buy German wine in Barcelona right now, and not just from the more famous names in the Mosel. Without Monvinic Store, I would have tried an awful lot less Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Sekt (sparkling German wine) and Riesling from niche producers from across the country, in a variety of different styles. There’s a lot of the ‘new wave’ German producers here now, and do keep an eye out for the exciting Enderle and Moll from Baden, in particular. Still, should you want an aged bottle of Riesling from an established heavy-hitter like Dönnhoff ? At the time of writing, they still have these slumbering in their cellar.
Italy: Whilst I still do most of my shopping for Italian wines online, Monvinic Store do a great job of sourcing some lesser known names from around the country, and still stock a few aged beauties as well. The focus at the moment seems to be for firm, tangy Sangiovese which is great news for those of us who buy wine to accompany dinner. Expect prices to start at around €20 and head upwards from there, for the really interesting stuff. Montevertine, Monteraponi are favourites from Tuscany and several of the wines I’ve tried from the ‘cult’ producers of Italian wine, think Elisabetta Foradori and Ar.Pe.Pe, have hailed from Monvinic Store.
The New World
Now, this is where it really gets interesting. Monvinic Store may have the single best selection of New World wine I’ve ever seen, which is particularly impressive when they consider they’re selling to a Spanish market, which generally has no interest in spending €40 for a bottle of New Zealand Pinot Noir, even from a top producer in the country. Some of the most interesting and delicious purchases I’ve made have come from their New World section and, whilst most are really quite expensive, it’s worth saving up the pennies and digging into it from time to time. There’s really nowhere else to find them!
New Zealand/Australia – Despite New Zealand being such a young, wine producing country there is still change afoot, and the ‘new wave’ are very well represented indeed at Monvinic Store. Don Wines, Alana Estate, Pyramid Valley and Cambridge Road all feature and whilst New Zealand maintains its record of being unusually expensive on all fronts, there are a few bottles I think are still worth swooping for.
The Australian selection is something else and I can’t think of another shop I’ve been to in the world with such a fantastic choice. Wendouree? Castagna? Giaconda? Jasper Hill? Find me another wine shop in Europe that sells mature examples of these wines, and I’ll be there. A bit like the wines of New Zealand, these are rarely cheap but we’re talking about the most iconic names in the country, and for those willing to splurge, you’re unlikely to be disappointed.
South Africa – Monvinic Store has embraced the Swartland revolution completely, with a plethora of producers on their shelves that didn’t exist even a decade ago. The collection centres around the wines from the famous Eben Sadie, yet Mullineux, A.A Badenhorst and Lammershoek all feature, as do the remarkable wines of Craig Hawkins at Testalonga. Whilst the more ‘classic’ South African wines have mostly sold out by now, I recall a memorable meeting with a 2007 Pinotage by Kanonkop and a delicious Blanc de Blanc 2007 by the late, great Graham Beck. I have my fingers crossed these sorts of wines will be restocked at some point.
USA – This is certainly the weakest element of the collection at Monvinic Store, as it is with nearly all wine distributors in Europe, with a collection of newer producers as well as some wines that are just too expensive to sell. No recommendations so far here, I’m afraid, although I shall be keeping an eye on it.
Argentina/Chile/ – A real mixed bag here, with Chile just nosing ahead of their rivals across the Andes. The Argentinian wines are interesting and anyone who hasn’t tried Carmelo Patti’s old-school example of Malbec is missing out. Yet the Chilean wines encompass a broader spectrum of styles, including some delicious old-vine Carignan, Pais and one or two more structured, Cabernet Sauvignon dominated blends. Nothing to get too excited about, but always a pleasure to try the exciting, new developments from the other side of the world.
The Space
The new show-room is a beautiful addition to the Monvinic portfolio and essential in having people get to know who they are, and what they’re all about. Whilst they still have a vast cellar on Ronda San Pere, more and the more of the wine is being moved across to the showroom where it’s encased in beautiful, large fridges and open throughout the day for people to wander in and search around.
Expect to meet Wen, Delia’s lovely dog who’s either sleeping under the tasting table or lounging in the glorious sunshine just outside the shop. Beware of throwing the ball for her; you may never actually get around to buying anything. There’s usually 2-3 members of staff on hand, including Delia herself, who’ve all worked in the wine trade as sommeliers or in retail/distribution and are happy to help you choose a bottle of wine. Everytime I’ve been in I’ve found them to be warm, welcoming and more than happy to explain the selection. If Delia is there herself, it’s an added bonus as she buys nearly every bottle for the store and can explain some of the decisions indepth and why a certain producer is worth discovering.
Conclusion
Monvinic Store is likely the most interesting wine shop in Barcelona, packed full of wines you would normally only discover in niche stores within cities like London and New York. Whilst this may not be the place to pick up a months worth of wine for daily drinking, every wine lover will find something for themselves here and if you’re like me, you’ll end up cherry-picking an awful lot of the really good stuff for a vinous treat. Better yet, as the selection is always changing and bottles are being replaced, there’s a good reason to check back every now and again to see what surprises await you. This summer is likely to be one where I try and explore grower Champagne a lot more, so Monvinic Store can expect me to be around quite a bit!
Tips
Whilst the showroom is a delight, do make sure you check out their website if you want to get a good feel for what’s on offer. As their selection is so large, a lot of the wine is stored in their larger cellar and moved across to the showroom when it’s ordered. If you have a specific order in mind, better to place it by email or telephone and then pick it up to avoid going twice.
On that note, it’s worth mentioning that Monvinic Store have a delivery service, which is free for any orders over €200. It typically arrives on the day you order it, as it’s cycled across town and delivered to your door. This is generally how I’ve bought wine from them in the past and I’m pleased to say that, even in the height of summer, it arrives at cellar temperature.
If you’re not sure, ask for help. This is particularly important in Monvinic Store as the selection is so very eclectic and it’s not immediately apparent what style of wine you’re purchasing, even for those of us who work in the industry! All the staff are very helpful and both Christian and Cristina speak a reasonable level of English for anyone who’s not up to scratch with their Spanish.
When you’re inside the showroom, be sure to check out the wines on offer. At the time of writing there’s a lot of very good South African wine on offer, often at a 50% discount. Next to the main wall of fridges there are branded boxes full of wines, with price stickers on them. Think of it as a ‘bargain bin’ for some very lovely wine indeed. For anyone reading this in the short term, I highly recommend nipping in and grabbing a bottle of Mullineux Syrah 2013 (€30, down from €37.50 ). Delicious, fresh, firm and a great example of the sort of new wine-making that is refreshing the country.
For anyone feeling adventurous, Monvinic Store organise a Wine Club with three different category levels, the idea being you pay a monthly fee and a surprise package arrives every month. The price categories are €30 (Mr Roots), €50 (Lady Pruina) and €70 (Super Cyclo) and there’s absolutely no indication as to what you’re going to receive; it could be 3 bottles of wine, it could be a single magnum. The only hint I can give you is that as you move up the price scale, the wines become far rarer and more esoteric.
It pays to sign up for Monvinic Store’s newsletter. Previously they’ve held some very interesting and free tastings around once a month, where producers arrive to pour their wines and explain all about them and the process of making them. These are scheduled to begin again in September and in the meantime, you still receive updates on the newly stocked producers, changes and offers. There are usually sales around 3 times a year and this is when it pays to swoop in and buy some of the more expensive wines you’ve had your eye on for a while!