Thoughts on wine

Thoughts On: Lesser Known Chianti Classico

A Tuscan Landscape at dusk

I drink a lot of Sangiovese at home, particularly from Chianti Classico which I regard as one of the worlds most interesting, and great value, wine regions. When it’s well made and from a good vintage, it’s hard to find a wine that’s so inviting yet so refreshing and, importantly, food friendly. The naturally high acidity in Sangiovese, along with the dusty, firm tannins and mixture of sour cherry and savoury notes is very much up my street, and I go out of my way to taste new producers wherever possible.

Most of the Italian wine I purchase comes via an online store called Vinissimus.com, as they have a brilliant range of well priced wine from all across Italy. However, on occasion there are shops in Barcelona that also seem to pull gems out of the blue, and two of the best Sangiovese based Tuscan wines I’ve drank recently have both come via Monvinic Store. Championing wines that are made in a more minimum intervention style, Monvinic sell both the wines of Monteraponi and Montevertine, two high quality producers from Tuscany, both within the Chianti Classico region. Montevertine left the appellation officially in 1981 due to the ridiculous laws at the time (compulsory blending of Trebbiano etc) and simply never rejoined, so don’t be surprised to see ‘IGT Toscana’ on the labels.

Whilst both have Riserva wines and some top cuvees, I get the most pleasure of their benchmark bottlings, which are transparently made and so, completely Chianti Classico in character. Interestingly, both are made from vineyards planted at over 400m of altitude, which may help account for the freshness and vibrancy of the wines, with summers increasingly hot and unpredictable. It’s also worth noting that both are strong proponents of Sangiovese, with the only blending partners the indigenous Colorino and Canaiolo, and both utilising cement vats for their long, slow fermentations. My kind of Chianti!

A glass of the ripe, old-fashioned Sangiovese from Montevertine

Montevertine Pian del Ciampolo 2015
90% Sangiovese, 10% a mixture of Colorino and Canaiolo from their own vineyards. 25 day fermentation in cement vats prior to 12 months of ageing in old, Slavonian oak barrels. 14% ABV

Medium ruby in colour and relatively subdued on the nose. Ripe cherry and bramble fruits complement dusty, dried herbs and sun-scorched, earthy notes, with only a hint of toast from the oak ageing. This really comes to life on the palate, with the juicy, ripe fruit coming to the fore, whilst the sticky tannins are still making themselves known in youth. Refreshing and juicy but perhaps a touch too young? Would love to revisit a bottle in 3-4 years. 89Pts

Purchased from Monvinic Store for €22.85

One of my favourite Chianti Classico's; Monteraponis brilliant 2015

Monteraponi Chianti Classico 2015
95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo from their own vineyards. 25 day fermentation in cement vats prior to 16 months ageing in large, old oak barrels. 13.5% ABV

Bright ruby in colour with some depth, and already singing on the nose. Sour cherry, strawberries, bay leaves, dried herbs and a light smokiness on the nose, but as with the wine from Montevertine, the real beauty lies on the palate. Refreshing, integrated acidity lifts the sour cherry flavours and the charm of the transparent wine-making becomes immediately apparent, with the fruit doing all the talking. Firm, grainy tannins still need time to soften and integrate, but it’s hard to keep your hands off a wine this good. Delicious. 92Pts

Purchased from Monvinic Store for €25

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