Galicia has been an unceasing source of high quality, delicious and often very affordable wines for me over the past two years. Whilst I, like many I suspect, begrudge the classic wines of the world (Bordeaux, Burgundy et all) becoming luxury items and symbols of wealth more than fermented grape juice to drink, it’s worth realising that there’s so much good wine in the world at such fair prices, there’s no reason not to drink well. My love of Albariño is well documented and if you follow me on Instagram or Twitter, you’ll note me drinking a substantial amount of Mencia and related blends, typically from Ribeira Sacra. However, to the east lies a region known as Valdeorras, ‘The Valley of Gold’, with a little less rainfall than Ribeira Sacra, more slate in the soils and a few very special wineries, producing the sort of wine that made me sit up and take note of Galicia in the first place. One of the very best, is Valdesil.
Valdesil was named in tribute to the River Sil which meanders its way through, and despite having growing traditions in the family hailing back to the first planted vines in the region back in 1885, the modern-day incarnation of this winery didn’t come about until 1990. The Prada Gayoso family decided to reclaim part of their ancestry and started to systematically repurchase the plots of land that their forefathers had planted, including the incredible Pedrouzos vineyard, which is the oldest plot of Godello in the region and now the basis for all nursery cuttings for new plantings as well as their top Godello wine.
Valdeorras is not a region where you invest with the intention of making a lot of wine; the free-draining slate soils, steep slopes and marginal weather make it a pretty risky investment and this was one of the regions that was absolutely devastated by the 2017 frosts. However, Valdesil produce a very solid 150,000 bottles a year, most of which come from their Montenovo and Mencia bottlings. Wine-making is delicate here, which you’d expect from a region that is famed for subtlety more than power, and the wines rarely sees new, obvious oak. Sulphur additions are minimal and the wines speak loudly and clearly without decimating your wallet. What’s not to love?
Valdesil Godello Sobre Lias 2015
100% Godello from various estate-owned plots around Valdeorras, most at around 500m above sea level, on slate soils. Fermented in stainless steel and then aged for a further 5 months on its lees, with periodic battonage. 13.5%
This is a subtle, shy Godello that requires a little patience and attention to coax it out of its shell. Lovely ripe pear and melon fruit is mingled with lime zest, chamomile and a toasted, mealy quality from the yeast contact. Broad, persistent acidity elevates the wine on the palate, with the delicate fruit more obvious now and enough texture to make this an interesting food-pairing wine as well. Excellent balance and I feel that this wine has a lot more to give; I’d be very curious to see it in another 5 years! 91Pts
Purchased from Magatzem Escola for €14
Valdesil Valderroa Mencia 2015
100% Mencia from various estate-owned plots around Valdeorras, on slate soils. Fermented in stainless steel with no oak contact. 13% ABV
Despite being more famed for Godello, apparently Valderroa was the first line of wines to be bottled by Valdesil. Pale in colour and gently aromatic, this is full of ripe, brambly red fruits, black pepper, crushed slate and a touch of spicy, herbal freshness (whole bunch?). Fresh and surprisingly soft on the palate, clearly intended to be an early drinking style of Mencia, with the same red fruits, herbs and savoury, smoky quality coming through on the finish. 89Pts
Purchased from Vinissimus for €9.50