If you follow me on social media or read this blog, you’ll know that I’m a big fan of Albariño. This white, Galician grape has produced some of the very best Spanish white wines I’ve had the pleasure of trying, and even the most average examples are, at the very least, refreshing. Fairly recently I produced an article talking about Albariño in more detail, including a look at the methods of production and what makes the wines different from one another, as well as tasting notes for 4 superlative wines from DO Rias Baixas. Today, instead of going into detail on the grape itself, I’d like to introduce two, high quality examples that are both available for less than €15. However – a quick caveat:

If you’re looking for cheap and cheerful, Albariño may not be exactly what you’re looking for. Wines made from Albariño have historically been quite expensive, at least in the context of Spanish wine. DO Rias Baixas, from where the majority of varietal Albariño hails, is a cool, wet yet sunny region leading to some predictable viticultural challenges; notably rot and fungus. Whilst there have been changes in trellising and training to mitigate this whilst not increasing man-hours spent in the vineyard, there are still plenty of vines train to a pergola system, which is hugely labour intensive, particularly around harvest. Grapes are lost every year to fungus and rot, yields aren’t spectacularly high in the first place and the region is fragmented, composed of a great many smaller produces, with the only sizable company being Martin Codax. Is it any wonder that the wines are a touch more expensive than machine-harvest Verdejo from the flat plains of Rueda?

However, despite this, you don’t need to break the bank to acquire top quality Albariño. Whilst many wines undergo lees aging, new oak tends to mask the delicate beauty of the grape and so is (thankfully), rarely used. Despite being one of the great white wines of Europe, demand is still relatively low and so the wines aren’t subjected to the mad speculation of Burgundy and Bordeaux. The fragmented nature of the producers here mean that there’s no cohesive marketing plan a la Champagne, with huge producers able to dominate the market and demand €30 or more for their most basic cuvees. For the quality seeking, budget-conscious wine-lover, DO Rias Baixas is the place to be if you like aromatic, zesty white wines. Better yet, a new injection of energy into the region has seen a smattering of new projects, yielding some of the most exciting wines yet. Below are two, affordable options that I highly recommend:

Bodega Fulcro ‘A Pedreira’ Albariño 2017
100% Albariño from the ‘A Pedreira’ vineyard, based on granitic and sandy soils within Val do Salnes. Fermented with ambient yeasts in stainless steel, with malolactic conversion suppressed, before resting for 5 months on its lees. 13% ABV

Very pale in colour and aromatic, but without the exaggerated fruit aromas of many Albariño wines. Instead there’s a strong, precise aroma of lemon zest, white peach, acacia and chalk. Then on the palate, it’s pure, focused lemon pith and a briney, salty flavour that carries through well into the finish. The acidity is absolutely electric – certainly no MLF here! Really precise, zesty stuff. 90Pts

Purchased from Bodega Maestrazgo for €14

Bodegas Forjas del Salnes Leirana 2017
100% Albariño from Val do Salnes, from 40-70 year old vines on granitic and sandy soils. The wine spends a few hours in contact with the skin before being fermented with ambient yeast in stainless steel and large, old oak foudres. Malolactic conversion is suppressed and filtration is minimal. 12.5% ABV

Darker in colour than the ‘A Pedreira’ and far more aromatic, with wonderfully delineated aromas: Lemon sherbert, peach, pear, honeysuckle and slate; almost more Mosel Riesling than Albariño! Then on the palate, the acidity picks up and focuses the flavours, with lemon sherbert and slatey, mineral flavours dominating, leading to a deliciously salty, savoury finish. One of the more immediately captivating Albariño wines I can remember trying – delicious stuff!. 92Pts

Purchased from Monvinic Store for €14