Rioja is often described in terms of ‘traditional’ producers vs ‘modern’ producers, drawing a line between those who stick to the old-fashioned methods of gentle extractions, long macerations and extended periods of time in old American oak barrels, vs the more Ribera del Duero-esque wines, that favour more extraction and shorter maturation times in new French oak. Naturally no wine region is ever this black-and-white, but it gives you a rough idea of where the distinctions lie. However, it’s actually quite hard to define with ‘traditional’ is. Is it how the wines were made pre-phylloxera? How they were made in the early parts of the 20th century? How they were made before French oak started to be introduced into the region? No-one really agrees and it’s not overly important either way, with Rioja focusing more and more on geographical specificity and expressions of individual vineyards instead.
Whilst no-one can really define ‘traditional’ in Rioja, very few would describe Bodega Lopez de Heredia as anything else. This remarkable family-ran estate has been in business since 1877, making it one of the oldest wineries in the entire of Spain; impressive in itself, but crazy when you see how little has changed in the wines over the decades. Rioja has been through changes and, like any region, is subject to the whims of fashion, consumer demands and commercial realities, yet Lopez de Heredia have stayed true to their own original style.
What is that original style, exactly? I’ve heard it mentioned a few times that Lopez de Heredia produce wines in a minimal intervention style, but it’s not really true. The philosophy of the estate is actually based around consistency; to try and limit the variation between vintages, which is inherently interventionist wine-making. Each of the great wines comes from a vineyard acquired by Don Rafael at various times throughout the 20th century; Tondonia, Cubillo, Bosconia and so on, and the idea is to showcase that site as clearly as possible each and every year. So, vintage ‘irregularities’ are ‘corrected’ using different vintages and different stages of press wines, to try and even out the differences. Long, oak maturation is common in American oak, with their Gran Reserva Tinto seeing 10 years in old casks before being fined with egg whites. Still, my experience with the wines has been that vintage variation is quite clear despite their best efforts, and that the wines all have a vibrancy of fruit that stands out above anything else.
I adore the wines, almost universally. My first experience was of a 2001 Reserva, and the high-toned red fruits, leather, tobacco and ever-present American oak completely captivated me, as did the incredibly well defined acidity that all their wines seem to be charged with. Today, their unique white wines are the most sought after of all, but in cooler years their Tinto Reserva is amongst the greatest expressions within the region, setting us wine lovers back barely €20 a bottle. For a wine of this pedigree that isn’t released until 12-13 years of age, including substantial bottle age in the winery, this is outrageously good value.
The tasting notes below cover two wines from the 2008 vintage: Vina Gravonia, a waxy, delicious, oxidised white wine and the Vina Tondonia Rosado Gran Reserva, a rare beast that I was very fortunate to try as a friend very generously opened a bottle up. Do be sure to check out their entire range as the wines are all superb value for money, and a window into the sort of wine that would have been drank more widely almost 100 years ago in Rioja.
Lopez de Heredia Vina Gravonia 2008
100% Viura from the Vina Zaconia vineyard, fermented and aged in old American oak for 4 years, fined with egg whites but unfiltered. 12.5% ABV
Like most of Lopez de Heredia’s white wines, this is a gorgeous, deep golden colour and jumps out of the glass before you even get a chance to pick the glass up! Aromas of lemon-pie, dried peaches, apricot and wax come to the fore, supported by toasted oak, almonds, walnuts, pine, dill and bay leaves. Wonderfully complex and savoury, yet despite the clear age and oxidative style, this is still so fresh and clean on the palate, with vibrant acidity and a long, persistent flavour profile. A touch bitter on the finish but such a vivid wine, and absurd value for the money. 92Pts
Purchased from Monvinic Store for €13
Lopez de Heredia Rosado Gran Reserva 2008
60% Garnacha, 30% Tempranillo and 10% Viura from their own vineyards, fermented and aged in old American oak for 4 years, fined with eggs whites but unfiltered. 12.5% ABV
How often do you drink 10 year old Rosado? Let alone one that’s been in oak for 4 years. Well, it looks like a rosado wine, but the aromas are something else entirely. Sour cherry, light strawberry, candied grapefruit and then all the American oak comes pouring in, with an orangey, Old Fashioned sort of style, which at this stage does obscure the light fruit a bit. The same vibrant acidity comes streaming through the wine again, and there’s no shortage of flavour concentration here. Hard to judge this in the context of rosado or a light red wine, as it’s no really either. Very endearing but slightly odd – I wonder if the oak settles a bit after some more time in bottle? 92Pts
Tasted with a friend