Despite my waxing lyrical about Galician wines, it seems that most people I know in Barcelona still haven’t cottoned onto the vinous beauties to be found in this cooler, greener part of Spain. If you like good Beaujolais, red Burgundy or Syrah from the Northern Rhone, you’ll love Mencia based wines from Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras. If you love Chablis or the more mineral styles of Chardonnay from around the world, Godello is likely to strike a chord, although with it’s naturally higher acidity this will never replicate the softer, creamier styles. My thoughts on Albariño have been recently documented in some depth. Then outside of these big 3, heavy hitting grapes comes a plethora of other indigenous varieties, often blended together and usually far greater than the sum of their parts.

The key to the styles of these wines is the climate; far more moderate than almost anywhere else in the country due to its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, yet without sacrificing sunshine hours in the process. Whilst Rias Baixas is the most famous region due to Albariño’s runaway success, DO Ribeira Sacra has been undergoing a quiet revolution over the last two decades and wines from these steep, granitic slopes are increasingly found in restaurant lists the world over.

I intend to do a full write-up of my favourite producers from Ribeira Sacra later this year, but for now let me introduce you to a single one; Adega Guimaro. Guimaro means ‘rebel’ in Gallego, yet there’s nothing overly rebellious going on here. Located in Amandi, a sub-region of Ribeira Sacra with very desirable, south-facing slopes and deep, granitic and slate soils, Adega Guimaro has been producing wine commercially since 1991. What they, and so many of my favourite producers here, do so well is to get out of the way in the winery. They’re not entirely minimal interventionist (read: ‘natural’) but they’re intelligent enough to realise that they have superb raw material and that new oak, flavour-enhancing yeasts or heavy extraction won’t do them any favours. Since being introduced to the iconic Raul Perez, their wines have gone from strength to strength and their single vineyard wines are now some of the most sought after wines of the region.

I haven’t tried any of their single vineyard wines owing to how quickly they fly off the shelves, but Adega Guimaro have produced some very good entry level wines for a while now, and I hold that you can tell a lot about a producer by the care and attention their more humble bottlings receive. Based on the following experience, I shall do my best to grab some of the single vineyard 2016’s when they hit the market!

Adega Guimaro Blanco 2017
100% Godello from their own vineyards in Amandi, Ribeira Sacra, taken from multiple plots on slate and granitic soils. Unoaked. 12.5% ABV

Very pale in colour and positively shimmering; I think this might be my first 2017 of the year! Not overly aromatic but there’s a very noticeable green fruit and citrus profile, with a touch of peach, smokey reduction and a touch of dandelion. Dry and steely, with absolutely ripping acidity at this young stage, which really brings out the citrus character strongly on the palate. A well made wine that would benefit a lot from being served with something to take off the hard edges. 88Pts

Purchased from Monvinic Store for €10.50

Adega Guimaro Tinto 2017
85% Mencia and 15% ‘other’ grapes, all from their own vineyards in Amandi, Ribeira Sacra, taken from multiple plots on slate and granitic soils. Unoaked. 13% ABV

Not as pale as some Mencia can be from Ribeira Sacra, especially an unoaked wine, but very typical on the nose. Lovely fresh raspberry and sour cherry fruit, white pepper and crushed rocks peg this as Mencia through and through. Surprisingly juicy and fresh on the palate, with barely perceptible, soft tannins and the same rocky minerality lasting well into the finish. A superior wine to the Godello and superb value at the asking price. This would be a great introductory wine to Mencia from Ribeira Sacra. 90Pts

Purchased from Monvinic Store for €9.60 (€7.68 on sale at the time of writing)