Wine Review

Wine Review: Recaredo Terrers 2009

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Unsurprisingly, considering I live in Barcelona, I’m a pretty big fan of Cava. Cava is a particular type of sparkling wine made in Spain using the traditional method and despite the fact it can be made in many different places around the country, a good 85-90% of it is produced within the Penedes wine region, specifically around a little town called Sant Sadurní d’Anoia. I’ve discovered, to my surprise, recently that Cava has a pretty average reputation around the world, mainly owing to the fact that three very large companies, Freixenet, Codorniu, and García Carrión, account for nearly the entire production. That’s not to say these wines are all bad but they’re certainly not setting world alight and the fact that the WSET is teaching me to detect a Cava by its ‘rubbery’ notes is not a ringing endorsement of the typical Cava sold in UK supermarkets and wine stores. Recaredo, on the other hand, may well just be the best Cava producer I’ve had the pleasure of trying so far.

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Recaredo is a family ran winery in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, producing around 250,000 bottles a year across their entire range (in comparison to the 88 million of Freixenet, to put that into perspective). They are unusual producers for a number of reasons; they own or control all the land their grapes are sourced from, their entire production is based on biodynamic viticulture and every single one of their wines is a Gran Reserva, meaning that no Cava they produce has spent less than 30 months ageing in their cellars prior to disgorgement. On top of that, their wines are outrageously affordable considering their quality and style. Disclaimer: I typically don’t drink Cava under 10 euros a bottle which isn’t to say good Cavas don’t exist in that price range, but they’re definitely the exception. Recaredo Terrers 2009, their ‘entry-level’ white Cava is a blend of Xarel.lo, Macabeo and Parellada that has been aged for a lengthy 70 months on its lees. The fact that this wine is being sold from 17-19 euros a bottle is insanity but exactly the sort of madness I appreciate in my life! Just imagine that on top of the entire process to grow the grapes and make the base wine, instigate the secondary refermentation and safely store it away, this has been sat in a cellar slowly ageing for almost 6 years before being disgorged and commercially released…. as I said, 17 euros is insanely cheap for this beautiful Cava!

Appearance: The Cava has a nice lemon colour with a lot of very intense bubbles.

Nose: Very pleasantly perfumed! The beauty of lengthy ageing is apparent here, with the lemon zest, floral and bruised green-apple aromas in a lovely harmony with some mature notes of pastry, honey and chalk. Still very youthful and delicate considering the base wine was made almost 7 years ago.

Palate: Bone-dry and enormously refreshing. The acidity is still very present and supports the fruity flavours very nicely, whilst combining with the small but persistent bubbles to create a very elegant texture. The finish is clean and dry with the fruit flavours lasting the longest.

Conclusion: Some people will already have come to the conclusion that I’m mad for suggesting this is a bargain at 17 euros, but it truly is. I personally believe their entire range up to their truly outstanding ‘Brut de Brut’ for 27 euros offers wonderful value for money but this is certainly the king in this regard. Grab a bottle and thank me later! You should be able to find this in most dedicated wine stores throughout Spain.

Score: 4/5

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