Is there a wine industry as mobile as Australia’s? I very much doubt it. For such a large country, the industry is tightly-knit, open-minded and as so many winemakers and critics take part in the annual judging circuit, ideas are constantly traded and considered. The result, along with the lack of Old World regulations, means that the Australian industry can make sharp right turns within the space of a single vintage. Merlot not in fashion? No problem, we’ll top-graft some Shiraz over there in a jiffy. Heavy oak and full MLF no longer desirable? A quick canopy re-organisation, barrel change and off we go. If your heart is fully invested in the idea of terroir and production techniques lasting for generations, you may think this is a slightly cynical approach to winemaking, but I can’t help but be impressed by it.
Recently, I had the opportunity these changes very clearly. I was picking out some wines to organise a blind tasting tuition session, and I was looking for something obviously New World in style, at an ok quality level. Based on my experience of the 2014 vintage of this same wine, I picked a bottle of the 2016 up at Vila Viniteca and went home to calibrate ahead of the session. For reference, below is my tasting note of Penfolds Koonunga Hill Chardonnay 2014:
Quite generic and clumsy on the nose, with overpowering notes of toast, vanilla, bread dough and smoke. There’s some nice lime and apple fruit underneath but it’s almost impossible to dig it out. Fresh but simple on the palate, fading into a soft, creamy but short finish. Pretty basic stuff. 83Pts
The 2016 version of this wine was anything but the above (read further for a tasting note) and it’s not a case of vintage variation. Penfolds, a benchmark, historic producer in Australia, are well known for championing the multi-region blend. Grapes are brought in for this wine from regions as far apart and disparate as the Barossa Valley and Tasmania; 1200km by car but a world apart in terms of climate and resulting wine styles. This evens out differences between the regions and also the vintages, giving a relatively consistent style year in, year out. What changes is the human factor; the decision to make a certain style of wine, and to follow through in both the vineyard and the winery (although there will certainly be an emphasis on grapes from cooler climates for the below style). What a change of pace within the space of two vintages!
Tasting Note
100% Chardonnay from all across South Australia – 220 growers apparently. Fermentation in stainless steel and a short maturation in French oak. Extended lees ageing – time unspecified. 13% ABV
Pale lemon in the glass and quite aromatic, but in a very different way to the last Koonunga Hill Chardonnay I tried! Very ‘new-wave’ Australian in style, with fresh lime, green apple, melon and a smokey, reductive note to complement the savoury, yeastiness of the wine. Fresh and quite zippy on the palate, this is very well balanced indeed with a medium body and no shortage of fruit concentration. Far better than it has to be and considerably better than it was! 88pts
Purchased from Vila Viniteca for €11.95