The second Australian wine in quick succession, and from the same vintage no less. This one is slightly different as I acquired it from a friend in the UK and to my knowledge, it isn’t currently available in Spain (sorry!). Regardless, I’d like to review it as it’s a really good example of the direction that Australia has been moving in for the last decade or so, aiming for leaner, brighter styles of wines, particularly their Chardonnay which has often been overblown in the past. This change of pace is demonstrated more clearly in Victoria than anywhere else in Australia, partly owing to its incredible mixtures of different climates and vineyard sites and partly due to the plethora of exciting wine-makers who’ve made it their home. From the fortified wines of Glenrowan and Rutherglen to the zesty, reductive style of Chardonnay I’m about to cover, this is where around 80% of the Australian wine I drink tends to hail from!
Oakridge are a winery set up in the cool (by Australian standards) slightly damp Yarra Valley, just north-east of Melbourne. Although there are some delicious, cool climate Shiraz’s being produced here, some of which I hope to taste and profile in the future, the mainstay is based on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as the cooler climate might suggest. Oakridge, a family ran business that have ramped up since 2007 thanks to external investment, take full advantage of this and their best wines, the 864 range, hail from their best vineyards on the characteristic red, volcanic soil of the valley. There was a part of me that wanted to do a side-by-side comparison with my favourite Chardonnay from New Zealand (Kumeu River Hunting Hill) but I just couldn’t resist temptation in the end!
Tasting Note
100% Chardonnay from their Funder and Diamond vineyard, 230m above sea level and all based on the famous red, volcanic soil of Yarra Valley. Harvested by hand and pressed into 30% new French oak, malolactic conversion was suppressed to maintain high levels of acidity and the wine was rested on its lees for 10 months. Minimal filtration. 13.5% ABV
The Australian’s never shy from providing wine-making details and as you can see, a lot has gone into the production of this wine! Still incredibly pale in colour and aromatically pronounced, but the wine is slowly starting to change character since I first tried it. Still smoky and reductive upon opening (I double decanted for around 2 hours to allow this to blow off) there’s more peach and melon fruit, and the toasty quality of the oak is starting to play a secondary role as the fruit broadens and deepens. Yet on the palate the acidity is electric and the citric squeeze comes through strongly on the finish. This is delicious stuff and I suspect has a lot more life left in it. 93Pts
Newer vintages available at Matthew Clark UK for £35.74