Whilst it’s certainly not the most popular opinion to have, I’ve still yet to find a white grape variety that appeals to me in quite the same way as Chardonnay. Riesling and Chenin Blanc are up there, in all their many guises, but there’s something about a well made Chardonnay always brings a smile to my face. It certainly helps that it’s made across the world, in a variety of different styles and price points. As wine students will know, Chardonnay’s spiritual home is Burgundy but issues with pricing mean that I can only normally afford the modest bottlings here, and even if I suddenly became wealthy, the issues with premature oxidation would likely scare me off the grandest wines regardless. The New World is awash with quality Chardonnay, often adopting techniques from Burgundy, with even the most expensive bottlings well within the price range of mere mortals. I’d like to briefly introduce you to one of them; Kumeu River Hunting Hill 2011.

Kumeu River is an estate in the north of New Zealand, near Auckland, focusing almost exclusively on Chardonnay production. Originally from Croatia, the Brajkovich family moved to New Zealand in 1937 and have been producing wine of some sort since 1944, starting with fortified and simple, table wines before moving into quality wine production towards the late 1970’s. Michael Brajkovich MW (New Zealand’s first MW, no less) is a big driving force behind this move and is largely credited with bringing Burgundian techniques to Chardonnay production here, including working a full harvest in Burgundy in 1983. The influence is immediately apparent in the wines and their own internal classification; village –> estate –> single vineyard. Barrel fermentation is common for the better wines, malolactic conversion is commonly practiced, extended lees ageing is the norm and even their vineyards are perfectly situated on clay soils over limestone.

Whilst I’ve yet to have an unpleasant wine from Kumeu River, there’s something about their Hunting Hill bottling that’s always struck a chord with me. The vineyard itself is on a slope, elevated over their celebrated Mate’s vineyard with no issues of under-ripe fruit. Despite the relatively northern latitude of the vineyard, it’s proximity to both the Tasman and Pacific Oceans keep it well cooled, particularly at night where the gorgeous, floral aromas stay locked into the grapes. Hand-harvested, gently treated and then subjected to a vinification that would make Coche-Dury proud; I give you, Kumeu River Hunting Hill 2011!

Tasting Note
100% Chardonnay from their Hunting Hill Vineyard on clay and limestone soils. Fermented in 20% new French oak with indigenous yeasts, allowed to fully complete MLF and then aged for a further 11 months in a mixture of French oak. 13.5% ABV

Deepening in colour at long last, just as it approaches 7 years in age. There’s a touch of struck-match on the nose (reduction), but so much flavour intensity: ripe lime, green apple, ripe peach, honeysuckle and gorgeously integrated, toasted oak. Full of zest and energy on the palate with a wonderful, complete texture that lasts throughout the wine and into a long, lime-inflected finish. This could still age for a while yet but I love catching wines at their mid-point, when youthful energy combines with complexity to deliver something quite lovely. A beautiful Chardonnay. 95Pts

Purchased from Vila Viniteca for €35 (On sale)