*tasting note at the bottom
**Part of the ‘Spanish Value Experiment
Wine #11 of the Spanish Value Experiment is on slightly more familiar territory for me; a Mencia field-blend from DO Valdeorras in Galicia. Possibly my favourite indigenous Spanish grape, created by one of my favourite wine-makers in Telmo Rodriguez. What’s not to love for a wine under 10 euros? Gaba do Xil 2015 is the entry level wine of Telmo’s project in DO Valdeorras, and having very recently tried his single vineyard bottling, As Caborcas, I was intrigued to see how it compared. The steep, granitic slopes of DO Valdeorras have traditionally been famed for Godello, an indigenous, high acid white variety, yet Mencia is slowly making its name here, often blended together with various indigenous grapes as part of a ‘field blend’.
Telmo Rodriguez is an interesting character in Spanish wine. After studying oenology in Bordeaux and working as wine-maker at the prestigious Remelluri estate (His family winery) in Rioja, he set off on his own in the 1990’s. His objective? To discover the soul of Spanish wine through individual plots of land across the country, focusing on indigenous grapes from exceptional vineyards; typically old bush vines in less fashionable areas such as Cigales, Malaga, Valdeorras and a few others. This simple philosophy has served him well and with Spain slowly starting to realise the extent of their potential ‘terroir’, Telmo has taken a lead role in showcasing it to the world, often at very attractive prices.
Tasting Note
A Mencia dominant wine (field-blending makes it impossible to be accurate) from 4 vineyards in DO Valdeorras, all on granitic soils. Fermented in stainless steel tanks – no information on ageing. 13% ABV
Bright, cherry red in colour and surprisingly aromatic. Ripe cherries and damsons are complimented by violets, smoked meat and a touch of black pepper; very Northern Rhone! Fresh and slightly firm on the palate, with the same rustic, smokey flavours as the nose and a long, red-fruit inflected finish. This punches well above its weight and is very much in the style of As Caborcas, but at 1/8th of the price. I can see myself drinking a lot more of this in the future. 90Pts.
Purchased from Vinissimus for €8.35