Wine Review

Wine Review: Bodegas Frutos Villar ‘Calderona’ Crianza 2010

A glass of Calderona Crianza 2010; a creamy, mature Tempranillo from Cigales in north-west Spain

*tasting note at the bottom

**Part of the ‘Spanish Value Experiment

If you live in Spain and drink wine, you inevitably end up drinking a lot of Tempranillo. Not only is it the most planted variety in the country, but it’s also spread across almost a remarkable number of regions, with the majority of the qualitative wines found in the cooler north. Few regions have a clear stamp on the grape, so often blended as it is with international varieties, but DO Cigales is an interesting region to the north of Castilla y Leon, already showcasing its potential for elegant, silky wines. My best experience so far has been with Bodega Traslanzas, which sadly falls outside of the price point for this particular experiment, but I’ve not explored any other wines for a good while. Calderona Crianza 2010 comes at just the right time to further my education!

Bodegas Frutas Villar are behind the wine, having set up shop in Cigales in the 1960’s after a successful 40 years in neighbouring DO Toro. Much like their production there, the wines in Cigales focus heavily around Tempranillo, yet at the cooler temperatures afforded by higher altitude a very different style is made. It’s a rare thing to be able to purchase an 8 year old wine for under €10 a bottle, and must certainly be a Spanish speciality!

Tasting Note

100% Tempranillo from estate vines in DO Cigales, fermented in stainless steel and aged in predominantly American oak for 12 months. 13.5% ABV

Very little colour evolution for an 8 year old wine, with a deep, dark, ruby core. Aromatic and with some complexity; a nice mixture of ripe, slightly dried red fruits, vanilla, nutmeg, soft leather and damp earth. Soft and a little faded on the palate, with the fruit falling away quickly, and with no real verve or energy. Creamy and integrated but lacking excitement – I suspect this wine is just a bit too old. I’d be interested in trying a younger version and seeing if it has a little more drive, as there’s certainly some complexity and interest. 87Pts.

Purchased from Vinissimus for €7.95

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