Jean Foillard is the producer who completely changed my perception of Beaujolais, and remains my favourite producer in the region to this day. When I first learnt about Beaujolais during my intensive week doing the WSET Level 3 Course in London, the focus of Beaujolais was Beaujolais Noveau and the use of carbonic maceration in its production. There was a short sentence referencing the fact that there were 10 ‘crus’ making higher quality wine to the north of the appellation, but that was about it. No samples of these better wines were tasted and I certainly hadn’t accidentally stumbled across it in Barcelona, so I just assumed it was one of those elements of wine that no-one really paid attention to.

How wrong I was. There wasn’t a ‘eureka’ moment for me, but the further I delved into the world of wine, the more it seemed that serious wine lovers really enjoyed Beaujolais. Considering my low opinion of the style as a whole, my curiosity was piqued and I started to track down bottles, always from one of the 10 crus. I drank my way through Drouhin’s new project with the Hospices de Belleville covering Fleurie, Brouilly and Morgon, Jadot’s project covering Moulin-a-vent and Morgon and anything else I could get my hands on. Most were very well made wines (Drouhin’s wines will be very good value in a few years time, once they’ve aged a touch), but lacked the excitement I’d heard about. Then I stumbled across Foillard.

Jean Foillard took over his family estate in 1980 and has since gone on to become one of the most celebrated names in French wine. The vast majority of his vines are planted in Morgon but, importantly, on the Côte du Py; a granitic slope south of Villié-Morgon. So, old vines that have been carefully tended for decades on the idea soil type for structured Gamay, a good start. What set Foillard apart at the time, however, was his approach to viticulture and wine-making. He followed the example of the late, great Jules Chauvet (the father of the French ‘natural’ wine movement), which flew in the face of most producers at the time. No synthetic herbicides or pesticides were used, grapes were allowed to ripen fully then sorted both in the vineyard and in the winery, and a minimal interventionist approach applied when making the wine itself.

All of this adds up to some seriously good Beaujolais. So good in fact, that I once snuck a Foillard Côte du Py 2015 into a blind tasting with Maestrazgo Wine Club, and no-one even suspected that it could ever be Beaujolais. Guesses were far more in line with good quality, fuller bodied Pinot Noir from Burgundy, which is the impression it’s easy to get from these wines. Foillard actually goes out his way to source older, larger barrels from top estates on the Cote d’Or, so there’s more than a passing connection in vinification style. I was very fortunate to try his top 2 wines from the 2014 vintage, an excellent year in Beaujolais, although both still tasted young. I’ve been told that these wines can still be superb after 10-15 years; I would dearly love to get hold of such a bottle one day. I suspect I won’t have the willpower to leave my own untouched for that long!

Foillard Côte du Py 2014
100% Gamay from their vineyards in Côte du Py, Morgon, from vines between the ages of 45-90 years old. Hand-harvested and fermented as whole-clusters for 3-4 weeks, before 9 months ageing in old, Burgundian barrels. 12.5% ABV

A very healthy ruby colour in the glass and really quite aromatic for a relatively young wine. There’s a lovely, light red-fruited profile, with ripe cranberry fruit and raspberries leading the way, followed by aromas of fresh violets, crushed rocks and that herbal edge from the whole-bunch fermentation. Still very fresh with lots of acidity, moderate supple tannins and such wonderful fruit purity. No hints of oxidation or apple-skin here, just a delicate, fresh and surprisingly persistent bottle of wine. More depth on the palate than the nose might suggests, with a long, delicious finish. 93Pts

Purchased from Licenc for €24

Foillard ‘3.14’ 2014
100% Gamay from the oldest vines in their vineyards in Côte du Py, Morgon, with an average age of 100 years. Hand-harvested and fermented as whole-clusters for 3-4 weeks, before 9 months ageing in old, Burgundian barrels. 12.5% ABV

Paler in colour than the 2014 Côte du Py but no less aromatic and a touch more ‘natural’ in style. The same wonderful red fruit purity is immediately evident on the nose, with red berries, raspberry and wild strawberry to the fore, complemented by subtle toast, warm earth and whole-bunch freshness. Lifted and vibrant on the palate, with fine but firm tannins and the same crunchy red fruit profile. Much younger than the Côte du Py that preceded it and I wouldn’t open another bottle of this until 2020 at the least. Refreshing, structured and a Beaujolais for the long haul. Probably the best bottle of Beaujolais I’ve so far had the pleasure of trying. 94Pts 

Purchased from Cuvee 3000 for €41.90