I’ve just returned from my first trip to Lyon; not wine focused, but invariably wine filled! Lyon is a beautiful, historical city in France, famous for its architecture (a striking clash of buildings from both the medieval and renaissance periods), it’s incredible food and, for those of us with our priorities in the right order, enormous quantities of wine. We spent 4 lovely days walking up and down its steep hills, exploring the old town, watching good friends marrying one another and eating and drinking as much as we could manage. I’m quite certain I managed to gain more weight within 4 days in Lyon than I did in a month in Argentina! It’s the first time in the 8 years since I moved to Barcelona that I genuinely thought “This is a nicer city, I could live here quite happily”. Roughly half the size of Barcelona in total but with far more space, and 1/8th of the population, not to mention a much more manageable number of tourists, there’s a very real sensation of space that I haven’t felt in some time. Having said that, fear not, I shan’t be moving, but with flight times of only 1 hour, I intend to be back regularly!

Sat in a blessed position between Burgundy and the Rhone Valley, I suppose it’s invariable that wine should be a major part of life here. My first meal was a classic example; uncomplicated bistro food, served with a carafe of unexciting but very serviceable Crozes-Hermitage. This was followed up with a 6 euro half bottle of simple, refreshing Brouilly, invigorating after a 4:30am start on the same day with a tired, sick 20 month old baby. As the unseasonally bright sunshine filtered through the trees and I sat back, enjoying the warmth, the contented sensation of being having eaten good, honest food and feeling the alcohol massaging my brain, I had the feeling that I was in the right place.

Whilst I could spend thousands of words waxing lyrical about the overall experience, this short piece is all about a few of the wines I bought from shops whilst I was there. The selection is quite stunning and as long as you avoid the supermarkets and Nicolas stores, you’ll unearth some gems that simply don’t make it outside of France unless on very strict allocations. The prices are quite inviting to boot! My wife doesn’t drink a great deal of wine and a day spent at the wedding limited the time we had to enjoy the wines I couldn’t help but pick up. Here were the 4 best:

Jamet Cotes-du-Rhone 2017
100% Syrah from different parcels around the upper slopes of Ampuis. Nearly entire destemmed (90%ish) and fermented for 2 weeks, before 12 months ageing in old oak. 13% ABV

As soon as I walked into this wine shop and saw Jamet’s Cotes-du-Rhone sat in a box with a price tag, I knew I was in the right place. A touch riper and more concentrated than the 2015 and 2016, but with the floral elegance that sets Jamet apart in Cote-Rotie. Vibrant blackberry and blueberry fruits, crushed violets, a touch of cracked black pepper and the sort of spicy, herbal freshness that so reminds me of well-judged, whole-bunch fermentation. Young and still a touch at odds with itself, but with gorgeous fruit purity, light tannins and acidity that lasts well into the finish. This will be singing in a year or two and it’s not hard to see why this is one of the hardest wines to track down from the Northern Rhone. 92Pts

Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage 2014
100% Syrah from 30 year old vines farmed organically around the villages of La Chene Verts. 100% whole-bunch fermentation in concrete and then aged in 3 year Burgundian barrels for around 8-12 months. 13% ABV

An old favourite and a delight to pick up a bottle with some age, not to mention from a vintage I loved in Crozes-Hermitage! Dark and brooding in the glass and so very expressive on the nose. A wonderful combination of savoury, dark fruits, dried orange peel, smoked meat, black pepper, dried thyme and a high-toned, floral lift; quintessential Crozes-Hermitage in a glass. Lots of grainy tannins on the palate, with the same deliciously savoury, spicy character carried by surprisingly zesty acidity. I know people like to let Graillot’s wines sit for longer but this is coming into its prime for me. My favourite producer in the region and another winner. Delicious. 93Pts

Sylvain Pataille Marsannay 2014
100% Pinot Noir from Marsannay, farmed biodynamically and partially destemmed (30-40% whole-bunch). Aged in 30% new oak for an undisclosed amount of time and very lightly sulphured throughout 12.5% ABV

Notably pale in the glass, with the gentle aromas drifting out of the glass with no encouragement. There’s a lovely ripe, red and black cherry profile here, and the 30% new oak is very well judged with just a touch of vanilla and toast, well in the background of the savoury, earthy characters and the fresh, sappy herbs. A really inviting, complex young Pinot Noir with light, powdery tannins and a wonderful mixture of the fresh fruit profile and savoury elements of the wine on the palate. Surely one of the regions best bargains? 92Pts

M et C. Lapierre Morgon ‘Cuvee Camille’ 2016
100% Gamay from 50 year old vines on granitic soils within the Cote du Py, farmed biodynamically. Whole-bunch fermentation is de rigeur before ageing in old oak, bottled without any additions, fining or filtration. 13% ABV

Lapierre does it again, absolutely lovely stuff. Ripe, bright red-currant and cherry fruit, crushed rocks, violets and sappy herbs; classic Lapierre, although much tighter than their Morgon Classique from the same vintage. Really bright acidity, light, supple tannins and a lovely finesse on the palate. I suspect this will be quite special with a few more years in a cool cellar, but good luck keeping your hands off it until then! Utterly delicious Cru Beaujolais. 94Pts