Everything in life is better with Chablis. When people talk about their ‘desert island wines’, the choices are invariably something grand, special or rare. Not for me. If you were to strand me on a desert island with a choice of a single drink for the rest of my life, I believe I may well end up passing my days in a drunk stupor, surrounded by bottles of Raveneau, Dauvissat et all. Oh, and Jean-Claude Bessin, a recent discovery through the gentlemen at Caskadia.
I don’t know exactly what it is about Chablis that is so attractive to me. If you look at it on paper, it’s a generally high-acid, non-aromatic style of wine that’s as much about body and texture as it is about flavour. Chardonnay isn’t itself a hugely characterful grape in itself and takes its cues mainly from the climate in which its grown, the soil its grown in (controversial!) and how it’s made in the winery itself. I like wines with energy, which isn’t something you’re ever going to write down in an exam, but I believe is an irrefutable element of what makes great wine. Good Chablis has it in spades, and the very best wines almost vibrate with it.
Jean-Claude Bessin isn’t one of the great names of the region (Yet. I suspect this will change), which is fortunate as I can actually afford them as a result. An architect by trade originally, he took over 12 hectares of land from his father-in-law and has been making wine from these plots since 1992, now joined by his son, Romain. I’ve not had the pleasure of trying any of his Grand Cru wines, but then I generally judge a producer by the effort they put into their entry level wines, which Jean-Claude Bessin passes with flying colours. Thanks to their efforts in the vineyards and a commitment to quality, the estate is now blessed with old-vines across most of the vineyards, and the wine-making process is lengthy and gentle, with the wines spending a particularly long amount of time on their fine lees.
The result is a savory, textured style of Chablis that manages this extra weight without sacrificing any vibrancy or purity of fruit; much like the two most famous names in Chablis I mentioned in the first paragraph. I’ve not met the man, but Jean-Claude clearly has a delicate touch when it comes to wine-making, and his influence is certainly a part of the whole; quite refreshingly, there’s no suggestion that these wines magically made themselves.
Below I’ve reviewed the old-vine Chablis that is their flagship wine, as well as two Premier Cru’s from the 2016 vintage; a torrid year for Chablis with significant hail damage to many vineyards, and almost a 50% loss of crop overall. The 2017’s should be arriving at Caskadia around October and again, with reduced crops due to the devastating frost there won’t be much around! I’ll be jumping on a good few bottles as I expect them to be even better than these very impressive wines from 2016.
Jean-Claude Bessin Chablis ‘Vielles Vignes’ 2016 100% Chardonnay from vines with an average age of 45 years, from plots across the estate. Partial MLF completed and spends 18 months resting on its fine lees in tank, after fermentation using ambient yeasts.
Pale lemon in colour and moderately aromatic, but with real classic, Chablis aromas. Bright, lemony fruit, green apples, white peach, chalk and a touch of phenolic waxiness on the nose. Dry and fresh though creamier than expected; some real weight and texture from the long autolysis here! Fresh, good quality Chablis and the strength of the old vines comes through on the persistent finish. 90pts
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Jean-Claude Bessin ‘Montmains’ Premier Cru Chablis 2016 100% Chardonnay from vines with an average age of 50 years, from 1.28HA of the Montmains Premier Cru. Fermented in tank and then aged in both tank and barrel (10% new oak) before fining and blending.
Deeper in colour than the Chablis Vieilles Vignes and more aromatic. The same, bright lemony character shines through but with a little more depth and complexity; pear and melon fruit, acacia, brioche, light toast and that lovely, crushed-shell character I so love. Stone-fruited and fresh on the palate with the tell-tale creamy acidity and light savoury touches. Long and persistent; really good stuff. 92pts
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Jean-Claude Bessin ‘Fourcharme’ Premier Cru Chablis 2016 100% Chardonnay from vines with an average age of 60 years, from 1.15HA of the Fourcharme Premier Cru. Fermented in tank and barrel, with 6-8 months ageing in a mixture of new (10%) and old French oak.
This is superb Chablis. A lovely mixture of citrus and stone fruits with wonderful fruit purity, as well as touches of iodine, crushed shells and a subtle, salty freshness. Compared to the other two wines, this acidity is absolutely electric; mouth-watering and persistent right into the long finish. There are layers of flavours here and absolutely effortless energy; this is exactly my sort of wine! Special stuff. 95pts
Barcelona truly is getting to be a more exciting wine destination, year by year. As shops, bars, tastings and courses expand, the offerings coming into the city get more interesting and increasingly, I find myself not worrying about missing out on quite so many wines as a result of not living in London. Caskadia are a great example of such a business, opening barely 3 years ago and already a hugely welcome addition to the local scene.
Arthur and Tom started the business together in 2016, coming from very different backgrounds. Tom had worked at Bibendum in London for 3 years as a sales rep after completing a Masters in Wine Commerce at Montpellier University, whilst Arthur had come from a more service based background, having worked as a sommelier in Michelin starred restaurants in London since 2005. After meeting at a private wine brokers in Barcelona in 2014, they became friends and started to discuss business opportunities. Caskadia is the result of that happy accident and two years of planning. Ah, the magic of Barcelona!
Caskadia primarily sell to local businesses, particularly restaurants and hotels, but also work with private customers as well. I’m going to discuss their current selection below, but if you want to get in touch and go through their list, email them and it shall be sent to you! Note that listed prices are excluding IVA and orders of €250+ are delivered for free.
The Selection
Importers are so important to the health of a wine scene, and the more the merrier, as it usually entails a much broader selection of wines to choose from. Tom and Arthur both specialise in the wines of France first and foremost, with a strong interest in Italy and niche producers in Spain, though their portfolio has expanded a great deal in the last few years. A simple, admirable philosophy drives them: “We want to import what isn’t currently imported and bring new wines to the market. We’re predominantly selling wines we like to drink ourselves, with a strong focus on producers practicing sustainable viticulture.” They currently offer 300 different references across 40 producers.
I personally buy quite a bit from Caskadia, both for wines to be used in courses and tastings, and also for my own personal consumption. I’m very impressed by the breadth of their wines, particularly from France, which covers a host of famous names, up-and-coming stars as well as some very affordable wines. Tom and Arthur make regular trips visiting producers, usually around 3 times per year, and so it’s worth asking for a new list whenever you want to buy something, as you never know what might be on there! Whilst magnums of Chave Hermitage, Cristal and Grand Cru Burgundy are all part of the portfolio, below are some gems currently on the Caskadia portfolio that I think are keenly priced and excellent value:
Fazenda Pradio: I’ve been a fan of these wines for a little while now; vibrant, terroir-driven expressions of Mencia, Brancellao and Merenzao from Ribeira Sacra. The entry-level ‘Tinto’ is 100% Mencia from elevated, granitic slopes and a wine I can’t get enough of. At €9 excluding IVA, it’s a steal.
JC Bessin: It’s a proven fact; everything in life is better with a glass of Chablis. Jean-Claude Bessin is a producer I only discovered through Caskadia, and I’m delighted I did. Hand-harvested grapes, natural yeasts and long elevage on the lees are all hallmarks of Bessin’s style, making for textured, savoury Chablis. The basic village ‘Old Vine’ wine is delicious, but the Premier Crus are the wines that really turned my head. Worth the extra premium.
Jacky Blot: ‘The Maestro of Montlouis’ and rightly proclaimed to be so, Jacky Blot is someone worth discovering in the Loire Valley. Laser-sharp Chenin Blanc, earthy, smoky Cabernet Franc and my personal favourite, his ‘Triple Zero’ sparkling Chenin Blanc. Affordable, age-worthy wines that I haven’t seen anywhere else in Spain.
Robert Denogent: Easily my favourite producer in the Maconnais and a pure expression of southern Burgundy in a glass, these wines were another discovery through Caskadia. ‘Les Sardines’ is a terrific entry-level wine that spends a remarkable 21 months on its lees, giving it real depth and texture, all for a very fair price (Only magnums available at time of writing for €32 excluding IVA), and their individual cru’s are quite special indeed. Keep an eye out for the incoming 2017’s!
Montevertine: I adore Sangiovese and particularly transparent, tangy, herbal expressions of the grape. Montervertine are a producer I admire greatly in this regard, situated in the heart of Chianti but typically declassified to IGT Toscana, these are pure-fruited, expressive wines. Caskadia sell their entry-level ‘Pian del Ciampolo’, a zesty, dusty, firm Sangiovese that embodies what I love about Chianti Classico. €19.95 plus VAT makes it a little dear, but worth it for lovers of this style.
These are just a few of the producers that Caskadia have on offer (300 references across 40 producers), but dig deeper and discover the magic of Bernard-Bonin in Meursault, whose ‘Bourgogne Blanc’ is probably the best I’ve tried from the entire of Burgundy. Try one of Cornas’s top producers with Alain Voge’s structured, smoky ‘Les Chailles’, or perhaps splash out on some top Cote-Rotie from Stephane Ogier. Grower Champagne, top quality cru Beaujolais, excellent Rosso di Montalcino…. do yourself a favour and ask for the price list.
The Space
Caskadia are based in a quaint office in the Raval, with a tasting space for anyone who wants to organise events there, as well as regularly organised producer tastings. The real beauty of their operation though, particularly in Barcelona, is that they’ve invested in some serious, off-site, underground storage for their wines. Having been in their cellar, I can confirm that it’s impervious to the summer heat of Barcelona, which is so, so important to the longevity and health of wine. I always admire anyone who takes this seriously and so far, I’ve not had a single damaged bottle of wine from Caskadia. They don’t import wine during the hot summer months as an additional precaution, which makes for a flurry of activity in September!
This also means that their office space isn’t a shop as such, but do feel free to swing past and say hello. They’re lovely, friendly guys and they can guide you through their list with far greater accuracy than I can. If you attend my tastings, you’ll undoubtedly have tasted one or two of their wines, and if you read my reviews, there’s a good few coming your way from their selection!
Conclusion
If you’re working in the wine business in Spain (Caskadia happily ship across the country), or consider yourself a serious enthusiast, you should get to know Tom and Arthur. The selection of their wines is seriously impressive and after only a few years in business, they’ve got some of the most interesting wines on the market at present. One to watch and whether you’re buying for your own personal consumption or your business, get in touch with them! You won’t regret it.
Summer’s just around the corner and here in Barcelona, the weather suddenly went from a gentle Spring to a full-blown warning within the space of 2 days. Generally speaking, as the weather gets hotter my own wine consumption goes gradually down, to be replaced with ice-cold beer, negronis and gin and tonics. However, I still continue to drink wine, just not at the pace I normally would during the cooler months; it’s a real hassle trying to keep wine at a pleasurable temperature when nature is doing its utmost to burn the city to the ground.
I was asked recently on Twitter if I could come up with a lot of some top, affordable Spanish wines that are ideally available in many different places. As I glared distrustfully at the sun a few days ago, it occurred to me that this might be a good idea to kill two birds with one stone; a list of affordable Spanish wines that should work pretty well for the summer months as well. However, I’ve intentionally chosen them by their availability as well; there’s really no point recommending the ultra-niche if it requires a plane journey and a local guide to track them down! So, I’ve chosen 5 white wines and 5 red wines, all under €15 and half of them under €10. What’s more, they’re all available through Decantalo.com, a brilliant online resource for Spanish wines. I’m fortunate that I rarely need to use their services as I’m surrounded by quality independent stores, but for those who aren’t, I hope this helps simplify matters. I hasten to add that Decantalo have no idea I’m doing this and there is no commercial arrangement in place, though I hope they appreciate it!
Without further ado, let’s have a look at those wines:
White Wines
Pardas Rupestris
Celler Pardas are one of my favourite producers of wine in the Penedes, specialising in high quality Xarel.lo, the top few examples of which see some time in oak and have pleasantly surprised Burgundy lovers more than once! If you have a bit of extra money to spend, definitely give them a spin; you won’t be disappointed. For the value-hunters, though, nothing comes close to Pardas Rupestris, a blend of Xarel.lo, Malvasia and Xarel.lo Vermell.
At €8.45 this is a complete steal. Made predominantly from Xarel.lo vines between the age of 40-60 years, this has real depth of flavour. Lemony, herbal and floral on the nose, with a gentle touch of anis and no oak influences at all. Yet for all its simplicity, and it’s modest alcohol levels (12.5-13%), there’s weight and texture on the palate and a finish full of garden herbs and hints of lime. Really lovely stuff.
Quintaluna
Rueda is a difficult place to find delicious wine. There, I’ve said it. Dominated by large commercial interests and an easy to understand grape in Verdejo, there’s not much of an incentive to push the boat out and explore the potential of the region, which is what makes producers like Ossian particularly welcome. A shining star in the region (those declassified to VT Castilla y Leon), Ossian focus on small quantities of wines made from old-vine Verdejo, some of it pre-phylloxeric, from dry-farmed, organic vineyards. Indeed, they were the very first organically certified producer in the appellation.
Quintaluna is the youngest and simplest wine of their portfolio, yet around 50-60% of it is still made from vines that average over 100 years of age. The difference between this and Ossian or Capitel, is that it’s made in stainless steel rather than oak, with only 2 months on its lees to pick up extra body and texture. The result is a pure expression of concentrated Verdejo. Citric and fresh on the nose, all grapefruit, lemon and just a suggestion of stone-fruits, this broadens on the palate and despite the richness and concentration of the flavours, it never loses its freshness. Juicy, long and with a really lovely, dry-stone sensation on the finish. At €8.50 a bottle, this is arguably the best value wine in the entirety of DO Rueda.
Mestizaje Blanco
One of the beauties of Spain is its wealth of indigenous grape varieties and whilst not quite as confusing and vast as Italy, there’s still plenty to be discovered. Case in point: Merseguera. Like many Spanish grapes that resist drought and provide high yields, Merseguera didn’t win much of a fan-base with wine-lovers, preferred instead for simple table wines, in and around Valencia. It took some high altitude plantings by Toni Sarron of Bodega Mustiguillo to really make the world of wine notice. Well, sort of. So far it’s received a scattering of applause, though Jancis Robinson MW and her team seem quite fond of it.
I am too, as it happens. This blend of Merseguera, Viognier and Malvasia delivers a lot more than it’s modest price might suggest. Full of ripe pear and orchard fruits, there’s a subtle, nutty spiciness to this wine that really appeals, with a touch of phenolic richness that broadens the palate. 5 months on its lees in stainless steels lends a savoury edge to the finish, though there’s no oak here to obscure the delicate flavours. Refreshing and different, at €9.55 a bottle, it’d be silly not to give it a spin.
Telmo Rodriguez Gaba do Xil Godello
Telmo Rodriguez is a big name in the world of Spanish wine; a trail-blazer and a driving force behind the changes in the Spanish wine industry over the last two decades. The belief that indigenous grapes and particular vineyard sites that allows these local grapes to flourish are key to making interesting, quality wine in Spain is at the forefront of Telmo’s philosophy, one he’s followed since the early 1990s. He now makes wine along with many partners all across Spain, bottling small quantities of some of the countries most exciting, vibrant wines. The best bit, though? His entry level bottlings in many of these sites are genuinely delicious, and also offer great value.
Case in point – Telmo’s project in Valdeorras, Galicia, and in particularly his mineral, terroir-driven Godello. Produced from 4 different vineyard sites dotted along the river Sil, where old Godello vines grip onto the nutrient poor, granitic soils, and fermented entirely in stainless steel. Full of crisp lemon notes, green apple, melon and wild herbs, with a broad, powerful acidity that is so typical of Godello; a wonderful introduction to Godello and Valdeorras. At €11.45 it isn’t the cheapest Godello on the shelf, but well worth the small premium.
Bodega Fulcro ‘Finca a Pedreira’
Albariño doesn’t often make it onto a ‘value’ list when it comes to Spanish wines; it’s generally a more expensive grape to grow and harvest than many others, in part due to the humidity and high rainfall in Rias Baixas, in part due to the highly fragmented nature of the industry here. As a result, many of the examples under €10 a bottle are often simple, fruity wines without much character. Bodega Fulcro, a relative newcomer to the scene, is one of a few top producers leading the charge to a new style of Albariño. Out with high yields, out with cultivated yeasts, and back to creating a more mineral, zesty style of wine.
Fulcro only produce two wines, and ‘Finca a Pedreira’ is the most affordable at €11.90 (Fulcro, their flagship wine is well worth the extra premium if you can grab a bottle!). Characterful, precise aromas of lemon zest, white peach, acacia and chalk tumble out of the glass. Then on the palate, it’s pure, focused lemon pith and a briney, salty flavour that carries through well into the finish. This is what Albariño is all about for me, and at the asking price, I think a brilliant introduction to the future of Rias Baixas and this wonderful grape.
Red Wines
Parotet Vermell
Another favourite from the Spanish Value Experiment, and a winery that is slowly but surely receiving the recognition they deserve. Celler del Roure is a project born in the 1990s, close to Valencia, when Pablo Calatayud purchased an estate including a remarkable underground cellar full of buried amphorae. Rather than rip it all out and modernise the estate, Pablo kept the project running and now makes some of the most interesting wines in the entire of the Levante.
Parotet Vermell is the entry level red wine of the estate and a blend of Monastrell, Alicante Bouschet and Mando from organically farmed vineyards. Fermented in both stainless steel and concrete, this wine then rests for 4 months in the subterranean clay amphorae before being bottled. A subtle wine and one to spend some time with, the first impressions are of bramble and damson fruits, with a slightly herbal lift and some spicy licorice. Powdery tannins and lovely, clean, textured finish. At €6.95, silly value.
Clos Lojen
Bobal is a great variety that seems to be increasingly popular in Spain, but still flies well under the radar compared to its planting size; the 2nd most planted red grape in Spain, for reference. Drought resistant, high yielding and fiercely tannic, it probably comes as no surprise to find that a lot of this ends up in bulk wine destined for the French border. The aforementioned Bodega Mustiguillo do a few very interesting bottlings of Bobal, but for my money, Juan Antonio Ponce deserves the top plaudits. After taking over his parents vineyards in the dry, dusty Manchuela in 2004, he’s managed to impart a delicacy of touch to Bobal that I’ve yet to experience elsewhere. Better yet, he intentionally produces Clos Lojen as an affordable, entry level wine so that his wines remain accessible.
Clos Lojen remains a wine I always have a bottle or two of, knocking around at home. 100% Bobal from 30-50 year old bush vines and farmed using biodynamic principles, this is a pure-fruited, delicate expression of the grape, with only a few months in old, large oak to temper it slightly. Clean, fresh blackberries, raspberries, violets and sweet herbs with surprisingly zesty acidity and firm tannins to give it some bite and structure on the palate. At €7.75 a bottle, this should have a home on everyone’s dinner table at some point.
Mesquida Mora ‘Sincronia’ Negre
From the beautiful Ballearic Island of Mallorca, hails another high quality, good value Spanish red and yes, I’m afraid another hit of the 2017 experiment. A biodynamic producer for the last 7 years, Mesquida Mora are focusing on some of the islands indigenous grape varieties, further showcasing the rich diversity available to Spain, albeit with a sprinkling of international intervention. Truthfully, the quality of wine from the Ballearic Islands varies even more so than the mainland, but when the wine is good, it’s really very good.
Enter, ‘Sincronia’ Negre, an entry-level, biodynamic wine made from a blend of Mantonegro, Callet, Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in decreasing proportions, and aged for 4 months in French oak. I don’t drink as many wines from Mallorca as I perhaps should, but I’ve often found that the wines I really enjoyed were quite expensive and the less expensive wines were quite generic. Not so in the case of Sincronia, which manages to harness the pleasing familiarity of the international varieties without losing itself, and all at an affordable price point. Ripe black cherries, red berries, damson and licorice are prominent with a gentle suggestion of oak ageing and soft floral notes; very Mediterranean, and even more so on the palate where the juicy, plump, violet-tinged fruit takes over completely. Yours for €10.35!
Vina Cubillo
Invariably, the single producer that most of the world of wine knows when it comes to Spain is Vega Sicilia, but I’d argue that Lopez de Heredia are hot on their heels, and are certainly one of the most highly regarded producers in the entire country. Having made wine since 1877, they’ve been steadfast in their pursuit of traditional Rioja, adopting practically none of the fashions or technologies that have been introduced over the past 142 years. Indeed, they’re still one of very few producers making a traditional, oxidative white wine, and certainly the most famous and sought after for it.
However, I’d like to take a moment to introduce you to Vina Cubillo, a gorgeous little wine that somehow manages to combine high quality grapes, a careful, lengthy elevage and still come in at €12.95 for a bottle. A blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha followed by a touch of Mazuelo and Graciano, this wine spends 3 years in American oak, and a further few years in bottle before release. High-toned and savoury, Cubillo is one of LdH’s wines that is ready to go on release. Full of ripe, slightly dried red fruits, leather, tobacco and touches of vanilla and caramel from the extended oak ageing, yet still so zesty and fresh. Classic Rioja at its most affordable.
Fazenda Pradio Mencia
Has there been a region that’s generated as much excitement as Galicia in the last few years? These Atlantic-influenced vineyards bring something that is hard to find in the rest of Spain, even at severe altitudes; genuine freshness of fruit and delicacy of touch. Fazenda Pradio have been a wonderful discovery for me and remain one of my favourite producers in Ribeira Sacra, where Xavi makes a small selection of varietal wines, each showcasing the indigenous grapes of the region with real clarity.
Mencia is King in Ribeira Sacra and whilst much of Xavi’s vineyards are slowly being grafted over to lesser known varieties such as Brancellao and Merenzao, it’s his ‘Tinto’ that I find myself coming back to more often, particularly at the price point! 100% Mencia from vineyards overlooking the river Miño, farmed biodynamically and both fermented and aged in stainless steel, this is a wonderfully pure expression of Mencia. Ripe red cherries, smoked meat, crushed rocks and wild thyme tumbles out of the glass, with refreshing acidity and lovely, supple tannins. Savoury, untamed and hugely drinkable. The most expensive wine of my list but at €13.70 a bottle, still worth snaffling a couple of!
Invariably I’ve had to make some tough decisions in putting this list together and there are many more candidates for a high quality, high value wines in Spain. Still, I hope it provides some new reference points for you and hopefully, some new drinking experiences over the summer!
The best laid plans of mice and men, often go awry…..
After a year of saving, preparation and study, I won’t be applying to start the Master of Wine course this year after all. This may come as something of a surprise to those who know me in person, as it’s been a big part of my 2018/2019 plans, and I’ve talked about it often, including parts I, II and III of this series. Trips to both Argentina and Bordeaux left me with a wealth of examples to tie into my studies and practice to use as arguments in examinations, whilst monthly trips to London and continuous studies at home had left me with a good solid base to start the course with. So, what gives? Well, we bought a house.
This sounds like the sort of thing that shouldn’t really come as a surprise, but it really did catch me out! You see, myself and my wife have been looking at getting onto the property ladder for a couple of years now; uncontrolled, painfully high rents in Barcelona are the norm, and throwing 50% of my monthly pay-cheque into the hands of a landlord who denies any responsibility anytime anything breaks was becoming something of a hassle. The problem? Partly thanks to Spain being knocked silly by the 2008 financial recession and an incredible amount of tax to be paid on any purchased property, we would need 35% of the value of a property as a deposit. As first time buyers. Bloody hell.
I gave up after about 6 months of searching as a result; we weren’t even close to having the amount needed, despite years of saving. I focused exclusively on preparing for the MW course whilst working to build my skill-set, safe in the knowledge that I’d probably have to keep dumping money into thin air for another decade or safe. Ah, painful bliss. Fortunately for me, my resourceful wife kept on searching, visiting and ultimately, finding a lovely little flat we could almost afford! All it would take was for a stroke of luck and for the asking price to be lowered. Well, fast forward a couple of months and we’re now the proud owners of a small flat in Horta, Barcelona; hurrah!
Unfortunately, all the money I’d saved to begin the Master of Wine course went into the deposit as well, hence the delay. I could theoretically begin, but my entire financial planning revolved around the fact that the moment I had to start trying to keep up with studies and financing it in the moment, is likely the time when I would have a breakdown of some sort. As it’s been pointed out to me, the course will still be there next year and at 30 years old, I shouldn’t really be in any sort of hurry. Wise words, and besides, now I effectively have another year of preparation which, if used correctly, will simply stand me in better stead for the trials of the course itself, both in terms of knowledge and having the money for the first year ready.
So what to expect over the coming year in terms of a MW study reboot? Probably a quiet period over the early summer where I help to tear down walls, paint, clear debris and make the flat somewhat livable before we move in. Then a ramp-up of visits, tastings and study periods from September onwards, with the intention of applying to start in May 2020. en quite lax on the writing front recently but fear not, there are more articles in the works! A combination of the house purchase, as well as a great deal of travelling made for a difficult, busy period of time that I found it hard to balance. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel and there will be more wine reviews, articles and general ramblings in the near future. Onwards!
Last month I attended only the second Nebbiolo Day organised by Walter Speller, the Italian Specialist on Jancis Robinson’s team. I knew I was in for a treat, but the day even exceeded my lofty expectations. You see, I love Nebbiolo and the opportunity to spend an entire day tasting through a plethora of wines made from this beautiful grape is my idea of a day well spent. Even better was the chance to try Nebbiolo across the board; not just Barolo and Barbaresco, but heading north into Alto Piemonte as well across the 12 smaller appellations there. In fact, I was so taken with these wines that I’m organising a tasting entirely around them!
Nebbiolo is a pretty remarkable grape. Naturally high in acid and finely grained tannins yet pale in colour, it’s responsible for some Italy’s longest-lived, most hauntingly beautiful wines. If you study wine through either the CMS or the WSET, you’ll get to know Barolo and Barbaresco intimately; the producers, the crus, the styles, the trends…. yet not unlike the more famous wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy, they’re practically inaccessible to my generation, both in terms of price and the fact they need some serious age to show their best, particularly Barolo. As a result, I found myself generally drinking ‘lesser’ Barbaresco and a great deal of wine from DOC Langhe, a regional appellation that includes much of the experimental wines/varieties, as well as declassified wines, often made from younger vines in the more famous estates.
This is certainly no hardship. Producers like Vajra, Produttori del Barbaresco, Roagna and Elvio Cogno are producing Langhe Nebbiolo that is engaging, delicious, affordable and entirely varietal. They age well and yet are delicious when young; my kind of wine! Yet variety is the spice of life, and moving further north from these rolling hills is Alto Piedmont, a historically important region containing 10 appellations, the base of which was formed millions of years ago by an imploding volcano. Back in the 18th century, parts of this region, notably Gattinara, were by far the most famous producers of Nebbiolo in northern Italy, eclipsing both Barbaresco and Barolo. Then vine disease, economic expansion of the textile industry and phylloxera caused these difficult, rocky vineyards to be abandoned and they have never recovered their former glory.
Events like Nebbiolo Day are to be applauded, partly for this reason. Having the chance to taste the great and mighty vs the relatively unknown is always a useful exercise, and even the most renowned producers had to be discovered somewhere along the way! Yet speaking to many of those tasting their way around the room, it wasn’t only my own palate that was drawn to the lighter, pure-fruited expressions of Nebbiolo from Alto Piemonte; indeed, those tables seemed much the busiest by the end of the day! Here are some general thoughts about these wines and Nebbiolo in general:
Elevation Matters: The old adage about Nebbiolo was generally about it being a late-ripening variety that benefits from lower elevations and south facing slopes, to ensure it ripens fully. However, looking at the elevation and aspect of some of these more northerly regions, I’m not convinced that’s true anymore. During a Masterclass at the end of the day with Piedmont expert Alessandro Masnaghetti, he mentioned the impact of elevation on not just ripening, but flavour profiles. Apparently whilst riper, grapes grown at lower elevations tend towards the more savoury, truffle, tar and earthy flavours of Nebbiolo with much heavier tannins. Those at higher elevations tend towards more floral aromas, fresher acidity and lighter tannins. With vineyards in Piedmont varying from around 200-550m in elevation and higher in parts of Alto Piedmont, it comes as no surprise to see such large differences in style.
Soil: Nebbiolo is a grape that’s particularly sensitive to its surroundings, which goes some way to explain its popularity in wine circles; grapes that easily transmit terroir such as Pinot Noir, Riesling and Nebbiolo are highly prized. Soil is naturally a huge part of this, and the general rules seem to follow similar lines as other grapes: limestone soils lead to freshness and elegance, clay soils to broader, more powerful wines, sandy soils to wines with lighter tannins and often finessed flavours and so on. I largely found this to be true whilst tasting around the room but yet again, Alto Piedmont is different in this regard, mainly due to its largely volcanic soil. The wines so often had a purity of fruit and a focus about them, regardless of the appellation, that I so rarely find in the more traditional appellations of Piedmont, yet without the intensely smoky flavours of the wines of Etna or the Canary Islands. Producer after producer referenced the importance of these soils mixed with limestone and sand. As a relative newcomer to the region, I can’t say for sure, but due to the consistency of these characters across the wines, I’m inclined to believe them!
Blending Partners: Another oddity of Alto Piedmont is the addition of other grapes to the blend. Whilst rarely necessary it’s a common practice and whether it’s Uva Rara, Vespolina or Croatina, it instantly changes the profile of the wine, adding complexity and also subtly changing the structure of the wine. I found that Vespolina instantly added a peppery, savoury character to the wine whilst the addition of Croatina generally made for a softer, slightly richer wine, in some cases a little more than I would ideally want! Unfortunately I didn’t find enough examples where Uva Rara was the sole companion to Nebbiolo and so couldn’t form an opinion on its addition, although sources seem to suggest it works in a similar fashion to Croatina. For my palate, I far preferred the addition of Vespolina.
Delicate Extraction: I often think that Nebbiolo tannins are misunderstood and often miscommunicated. Yes, young Barolo can be heavy and aggressive, and levels of tannins are almost always in the high-range of grape varieties, but well managed Nebbiolo tannins are also finely-grained and deliciously textural. Whenever I found a wine I found to be particularly elegant or finely textured, I was curious to know what the method of extraction might be. More than 90% of the time, submerged cap fermentation was the answer. Historically this was, somewhat ironically, the choice to extract as much colour as possible from the grapes through a process of long maceration, often for several months, by pinning the cap under the juice, often through a simple matrix of wooden planks. It’s a full-on method of extraction but also a slow one, with the cap not broken up or punched down in any way during the process. As a result, the tannins are slowly extracted from the skins yet in a very delicate manner, which I believe leads to their structural integrity and textural appeal.
Other Wine-Making: I’m not a fan of new oak coming anywhere near most Nebbiolo. There, I’ve said it. Some of the worlds most expensive Barolo spends a considerable amount of time in new oak, and gains huge scores from critics and consumers alike, but it just isn’t for me. The beauty of Nebbiolo lies in its delicacy, subtlety and freshness, all of which are easily masked by clums…sorry, ambitious wine-making. I was thrilled to discover that new oak isn’t well received in Alto Piedmont. Old oak botti are very common and the result is a slightly paler, browner colour, well integrated savoury characters and an uninhibited expression of mountain Nebbiolo; pure-fruited, mineral and savoury.
In the Family: Much of the Old World is proud to have wineries under the same family ownership for generations, but Alto Piemonte takes this to a whole new level. Many of the wineries I spoke to were tracing their family traditions in the region back centuries, and in some cases the methods of production hadn’t changed significantly at all. The magnificently old-fashioned Antoniotti family are still bottling wines manually and speaking to the wine-makers present at the tasting, it was far less about technique and far more about tradition. This can of course limit a region, but in the case of the fragmented, small Alto Piemonte, it serves as a voice that helps distinguish them above the noise.
Appellation Size: I was quite staggered to learn just how small some of these regions really are. In Spain, our smallest DO is DO Alella to the north of Barcelona; all 350 hectares of it. Comparatively, the largest appellation in Alto Piemonte is a miniscule 95ha and there are a good few well under 50ha. When you start to find appellations smaller than many estates in more classic regions, you have to marvel at the perseverance of the producers still soldiering on and making wine here. It’s also remarkable that prices stay at a reasonable level even with the necessarily limited productions!
With the propensity for wine-drinkers to look for fresher, lower alcohol wines that speak strongly of their place, I can immediately see the attraction of Alto Piedmont. The wines are accessible, at least in terms of price and drinkability, almost always refreshing and relatively unknown; if you’re seeking for a new experience, plenty await you here! The difficult, I imagine, would be finding them. I’m very fortunate to have Vinissimus on my doorstep which is where I buy 99% of my Italian wine in Spain, as otherwise our selection would be limited to Super-Tuscans and the top end of Barolo/Barbaresco. These are wines that suit my palate well and I look forward to exploring different producers and styles further. Vinissimus do deliver abroad so if you wanted to give them a try, have a poke around and see what you find. Even the most ambitiously priced wines (Ar.Pe.Pe aside) rarely breach 30 euros and there’s a lot of drinking pleasure to be had for under 20! Get drinking!
Favourite Wines of Nebbiolo Day
No long tasting notes this time I’m afraid, as I wanted to keep this article brief and to the point. However, aside from the wines I’m showing at tonight’s tasting, here are a few of my favourite wines from Alto Piemonte and Valtellina that I tasted on the day:
Rainoldi Valtellina Superiore Inferno Riserva 2015 – Fresh, finely grained and a rare exception to the use of new oak, which was slightly spicy but very well integrated indeed. Will need 5 more years to really open up.
Podere ai Valloni Vigna Cristiana 2010 – Wow, what a wine. High-toned red fruits, peppery spices, crushed rocks and fresh herbal characters; really engaging stuff. Compact and firm still, just starting to yield on the palate, but incredibly focused and precise. A great bottle of wine that will stand the test of time.
La Pianelle Al Posto Dei Fiori 2016 – My first encounter with a rose Nebbiolo and I find myself charmed! Bright strawberry fruit and crushed rose petals; hugely perfumed and yet still spicy and fresh on the palate. Very Nebbiolo in character. Quite expensive, sadly.
Le Piane Boca 2015 – Much better than the heavy, slightly unwieldy 2009. Bright red fruits, dried rose petals, sappy herbs and very light toast. Fresh, easy drinking and I suspect will gain a lot of complexity over the coming years. Again, slightly too expensive for me!
Nervi Gattinara 2015 – Roberto Conterno’s new project since 2012, a move that sent shockwaves through this small community. Apparently no single vineyard wines were made in 2015 and all the grapes into this cuvee instead. Still tight and a little closed, there’s plenty of red fruit stuffed in here, delicate mineral notes and surprisingly accessible tannins. Far more refined than your typical Gattinara
