Thoughts on wine

10 Top Value Spanish Wines – 2019 Edition

Drink high quality Spanish wine for less

Summer’s just around the corner and here in Barcelona, the weather suddenly went from a gentle Spring to a full-blown warning within the space of 2 days. Generally speaking, as the weather gets hotter my own wine consumption goes gradually down, to be replaced with ice-cold beer, negronis and gin and tonics. However, I still continue to drink wine, just not at the pace I normally would during the cooler months; it’s a real hassle trying to keep wine at a pleasurable temperature when nature is doing its utmost to burn the city to the ground.

I was asked recently on Twitter if I could come up with a lot of some top, affordable Spanish wines that are ideally available in many different places. As I glared distrustfully at the sun a few days ago, it occurred to me that this might be a good idea to kill two birds with one stone; a list of affordable Spanish wines that should work pretty well for the summer months as well. However, I’ve intentionally chosen them by their availability as well; there’s really no point recommending the ultra-niche if it requires a plane journey and a local guide to track them down! So, I’ve chosen 5 white wines and 5 red wines, all under €15 and half of them under €10. What’s more, they’re all available through Decantalo.com, a brilliant online resource for Spanish wines. I’m fortunate that I rarely need to use their services as I’m surrounded by quality independent stores, but for those who aren’t, I hope this helps simplify matters. I hasten to add that Decantalo have no idea I’m doing this and there is no commercial arrangement in place, though I hope they appreciate it!

Without further ado, let’s have a look at those wines:

White Wines

Bright, lemony Xarel.lo from Can Rafols dels Caus, at a great price!

Pardas Rupestris

Celler Pardas are one of my favourite producers of wine in the Penedes, specialising in high quality Xarel.lo, the top few examples of which see some time in oak and have pleasantly surprised Burgundy lovers more than once! If you have a bit of extra money to spend, definitely give them a spin; you won’t be disappointed. For the value-hunters, though, nothing comes close to Pardas Rupestris, a blend of Xarel.lo, Malvasia and Xarel.lo Vermell.

At €8.45 this is a complete steal. Made predominantly from Xarel.lo vines between the age of 40-60 years, this has real depth of flavour. Lemony, herbal and floral on the nose, with a gentle touch of anis and no oak influences at all. Yet for all its simplicity, and it’s modest alcohol levels (12.5-13%), there’s weight and texture on the palate and a finish full of garden herbs and hints of lime. Really lovely stuff.

One of Rueda's most interesting white wines, at a very attractive price point!

Quintaluna

Rueda is a difficult place to find delicious wine. There, I’ve said it. Dominated by large commercial interests and an easy to understand grape in Verdejo, there’s not much of an incentive to push the boat out and explore the potential of the region, which is what makes producers like Ossian particularly welcome. A shining star in the region (those declassified to VT Castilla y Leon), Ossian focus on small quantities of wines made from old-vine Verdejo, some of it pre-phylloxeric, from dry-farmed, organic vineyards. Indeed, they were the very first organically certified producer in the appellation.

Quintaluna is the youngest and simplest wine of their portfolio, yet around 50-60% of it is still made from vines that average over 100 years of age. The difference between this and Ossian or Capitel, is that it’s made in stainless steel rather than oak, with only 2 months on its lees to pick up extra body and texture. The result is a pure expression of concentrated Verdejo. Citric and fresh on the nose, all grapefruit, lemon and just a suggestion of stone-fruits, this broadens on the palate and despite the richness and concentration of the flavours, it never loses its freshness. Juicy, long and with a really lovely, dry-stone sensation on the finish. At €8.50 a bottle, this is arguably the best value wine in the entirety of DO Rueda.

Mestizaje Blanco

One of the beauties of Spain is its wealth of indigenous grape varieties and whilst not quite as confusing and vast as Italy, there’s still plenty to be discovered. Case in point: Merseguera. Like many Spanish grapes that resist drought and provide high yields, Merseguera didn’t win much of a fan-base with wine-lovers, preferred instead for simple table wines, in and around Valencia. It took some high altitude plantings by Toni Sarron of Bodega Mustiguillo to really make the world of wine notice. Well, sort of. So far it’s received a scattering of applause, though Jancis Robinson MW and her team seem quite fond of it.

I am too, as it happens. This blend of Merseguera, Viognier and Malvasia delivers a lot more than it’s modest price might suggest. Full of ripe pear and orchard fruits, there’s a subtle, nutty spiciness to this wine that really appeals, with a touch of phenolic richness that broadens the palate. 5 months on its lees in stainless steels lends a savoury edge to the finish, though there’s no oak here to obscure the delicate flavours. Refreshing and different, at €9.55 a bottle, it’d be silly not to give it a spin.

Telmo Rodriguez Gaba do Xil Godello

Telmo Rodriguez is a big name in the world of Spanish wine; a trail-blazer and a driving force behind the changes in the Spanish wine industry over the last two decades. The belief that indigenous grapes and particular vineyard sites that allows these local grapes to flourish are key to making interesting, quality wine in Spain is at the forefront of Telmo’s philosophy, one he’s followed since the early 1990s. He now makes wine along with many partners all across Spain, bottling small quantities of some of the countries most exciting, vibrant wines. The best bit, though? His entry level bottlings in many of these sites are genuinely delicious, and also offer great value.

Case in point – Telmo’s project in Valdeorras, Galicia, and in particularly his mineral, terroir-driven Godello. Produced from 4 different vineyard sites dotted along the river Sil, where old Godello vines grip onto the nutrient poor, granitic soils, and fermented entirely in stainless steel. Full of crisp lemon notes, green apple, melon and wild herbs, with a broad, powerful acidity that is so typical of Godello; a wonderful introduction to Godello and Valdeorras. At €11.45 it isn’t the cheapest Godello on the shelf, but well worth the small premium.

Bodega Fulcro ‘Finca a Pedreira’

Albariño doesn’t often make it onto a ‘value’ list when it comes to Spanish wines; it’s generally a more expensive grape to grow and harvest than many others, in part due to the humidity and high rainfall in Rias Baixas, in part due to the highly fragmented nature of the industry here. As a result, many of the examples under €10 a bottle are often simple, fruity wines without much character. Bodega Fulcro, a relative newcomer to the scene, is one of a few top producers leading the charge to a new style of Albariño. Out with high yields, out with cultivated yeasts, and back to creating a more mineral, zesty style of wine.

Fulcro only produce two wines, and ‘Finca a Pedreira’ is the most affordable at €11.90 (Fulcro, their flagship wine is well worth the extra premium if you can grab a bottle!). Characterful, precise aromas of lemon zest, white peach, acacia and chalk tumble out of the glass. Then on the palate, it’s pure, focused lemon pith and a briney, salty flavour that carries through well into the finish. This is what Albariño is all about for me, and at the asking price, I think a brilliant introduction to the future of Rias Baixas and this wonderful grape.

Red Wines

Parotet Vermell

Another favourite from the Spanish Value Experiment, and a winery that is slowly but surely receiving the recognition they deserve. Celler del Roure is a project born in the 1990s, close to Valencia, when Pablo Calatayud purchased an estate including a remarkable underground cellar full of buried amphorae. Rather than rip it all out and modernise the estate, Pablo kept the project running and now makes some of the most interesting wines in the entire of the Levante.

Parotet Vermell is the entry level red wine of the estate and a blend of Monastrell, Alicante Bouschet and Mando from organically farmed vineyards. Fermented in both stainless steel and concrete, this wine then rests for 4 months in the subterranean clay amphorae before being bottled. A subtle wine and one to spend some time with, the first impressions are of bramble and damson fruits, with a slightly herbal lift and some spicy licorice. Powdery tannins and lovely, clean, textured finish. At €6.95, silly value.

Clos Lojen

Bobal is a great variety that seems to be increasingly popular in Spain, but still flies well under the radar compared to its planting size; the 2nd most planted red grape in Spain, for reference. Drought resistant, high yielding and fiercely tannic, it probably comes as no surprise to find that a lot of this ends up in bulk wine destined for the French border. The aforementioned Bodega Mustiguillo do a few very interesting bottlings of Bobal, but for my money, Juan Antonio Ponce deserves the top plaudits. After taking over his parents vineyards in the dry, dusty Manchuela in 2004, he’s managed to impart a delicacy of touch to Bobal that I’ve yet to experience elsewhere. Better yet, he intentionally produces Clos Lojen as an affordable, entry level wine so that his wines remain accessible.

Clos Lojen remains a wine I always have a bottle or two of, knocking around at home. 100% Bobal from 30-50 year old bush vines and farmed using biodynamic principles, this is a pure-fruited, delicate expression of the grape, with only a few months in old, large oak to temper it slightly. Clean, fresh blackberries, raspberries, violets and sweet herbs with surprisingly zesty acidity and firm tannins to give it some bite and structure on the palate. At €7.75 a bottle, this should have a home on everyone’s dinner table at some point.

Mesquida Mora ‘Sincronia’ Negre

From the beautiful Ballearic Island of Mallorca, hails another high quality, good value Spanish red and yes, I’m afraid another hit of the 2017 experiment. A biodynamic producer for the last 7 years, Mesquida Mora are focusing on some of the islands indigenous grape varieties, further showcasing the rich diversity available to Spain, albeit with a sprinkling of international intervention. Truthfully, the quality of wine from the Ballearic Islands varies even more so than the mainland, but when the wine is good, it’s really very good.

Enter, ‘Sincronia’ Negre, an entry-level, biodynamic wine made from a blend of Mantonegro, Callet, Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in decreasing proportions, and aged for 4 months in French oak. I don’t drink as many wines from Mallorca as I perhaps should, but I’ve often found that the wines I really enjoyed were quite expensive and the less expensive wines were quite generic. Not so in the case of Sincronia, which manages to harness the pleasing familiarity of the international varieties without losing itself, and all at an affordable price point. Ripe black cherries, red berries, damson and licorice are prominent with a gentle suggestion of oak ageing and soft floral notes; very Mediterranean, and even more so on the palate where the juicy, plump, violet-tinged fruit takes over completely. Yours for €10.35!

Vina Cubillo

Invariably, the single producer that most of the world of wine knows when it comes to Spain is Vega Sicilia, but I’d argue that Lopez de Heredia are hot on their heels, and are certainly one of the most highly regarded producers in the entire country. Having made wine since 1877, they’ve been steadfast in their pursuit of traditional Rioja, adopting practically none of the fashions or technologies that have been introduced over the past 142 years. Indeed, they’re still one of very few producers making a traditional, oxidative white wine, and certainly the most famous and sought after for it.

However, I’d like to take a moment to introduce you to Vina Cubillo, a gorgeous little wine that somehow manages to combine high quality grapes, a careful, lengthy elevage and still come in at €12.95 for a bottle. A blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha followed by a touch of Mazuelo and Graciano, this wine spends 3 years in American oak, and a further few years in bottle before release. High-toned and savoury, Cubillo is one of LdH’s wines that is ready to go on release. Full of ripe, slightly dried red fruits, leather, tobacco and touches of vanilla and caramel from the extended oak ageing, yet still so zesty and fresh. Classic Rioja at its most affordable.

Fazenda Pradio Mencia

Has there been a region that’s generated as much excitement as Galicia in the last few years? These Atlantic-influenced vineyards bring something that is hard to find in the rest of Spain, even at severe altitudes; genuine freshness of fruit and delicacy of touch. Fazenda Pradio have been a wonderful discovery for me and remain one of my favourite producers in Ribeira Sacra, where Xavi makes a small selection of varietal wines, each showcasing the indigenous grapes of the region with real clarity.

Mencia is King in Ribeira Sacra and whilst much of Xavi’s vineyards are slowly being grafted over to lesser known varieties such as Brancellao and Merenzao, it’s his ‘Tinto’ that I find myself coming back to more often, particularly at the price point! 100% Mencia from vineyards overlooking the river Miño, farmed biodynamically and both fermented and aged in stainless steel, this is a wonderfully pure expression of Mencia. Ripe red cherries, smoked meat, crushed rocks and wild thyme tumbles out of the glass, with refreshing acidity and lovely, supple tannins. Savoury, untamed and hugely drinkable. The most expensive wine of my list but at €13.70 a bottle, still worth snaffling a couple of!

Invariably I’ve had to make some tough decisions in putting this list together and there are many more candidates for a high quality, high value wines in Spain. Still, I hope it provides some new reference points for you and hopefully, some new drinking experiences over the summer!

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