Garnacha, more commonly known to the world as Grenache, is slowly recovering from a dip in popularity towards the end of the 20th century. Even as little as three decades ago it was the 2nd most planted red variety in the world before the EU Vine Pull Scheme, and by far the most planted red variety in Spain; now 7th and 3rd respectively. Garnacha most likely began life in Aragon and was planted extensively across the kingdom, which at the time including much of southern France as well as Sardinia and parts of western Italy. It has since travelled the world to much acclaim, particularly famous for its vines in Barossa Valley, some of which are over 150 years old, as well as being revitalised in California by the Rhone Rangers and having a minor role to play in South Africa.
Yet for all the stamps Garnacha has picked up on its passport, a rarity for any indigenous Spanish variety, it produces its best varietal expressions at home in Spain. Long used as a blending ingredient to plump up blends, in the last two decades, the potential for mono-varietal Garnacha has been steadily explored and increasingly celebrated. The major issue from a quality perspective with Garnacha is that its sugar levels often increase much faster than its phenolic ripeness, leaving the wine-maker with the dilemma when it comes to the balance of the resulting wine. Do I pick early and risk having green, under-ripe flavours and tannins or wait until the sugar level is so high that I’m forced to heavily acidify, include excess stems or possibly even dilute my wine? Naturally these are extreme examples, but I’ve tasted more than my fair share of Garnacha creeping up towards the 16% ABV mark, where it’s very difficult (but not impossible) to find balance and interest.
Unsurprisingly, the areas that produce the best Garnacha are particularly suited to it; hot enough to ripen the grape, yet with mitigating factors to help preserve that all important acidity. Vine age plays a big role as well, weathering the extreme summer heats whilst preserving low yields of concentrated, thicker-skinned Garnacha. Having said all this, even with ideal conditions in play, Garnacha is very rarely very interesting below 14% ABV and as always, the best wine-makers will find the balance that reflects not only the grape, but the particular climate and conditions it hails from.Whether it’s the earthy, spicy wines of Catalunya and Aragon, the delicate but firm wines of the Sierra de Gredos mountain range or the increasingly fruit-forward Garnacha of Rioja and Navarra, there’s a lot to be excited about at the moment.
Landi-Jimenez ‘Sotorrondero’ 2015
70% Garnacha, 30% Syrah with old vine (50-70 years) Garnacha complimented by younger (12 years) Syrah. Granitic and sandy soils at 500-850m altitude. Stainless steel fermentation (some older vats) and aged for 10 months in old French oak. 14.5% ABV
Jose and Daniel Landi-Jiminez are two of the more exciting names in Spanish wine, making their fame and fortune with their families estate in Mentrida before branching out on separate projects. The key to their success here is two-fold; firstly, the quality of the old-vine Garnacha, some of which is over 70 years old, and the high altitude vineyards that mitigate the incredibly continental climate of Mentrida. The Garnacha component of this wine actually comes from the Sierra de Gredos, and the younger Syrah is from their slightly less elevated vineyards in Mentrida itself.
A lovely pale ruby colour, and quite restrained on the nose at first. Aromas of ripe strawberries and plums are complimented by white pepper, licorice and a sensation of crushed rocks. A little reduced but it blows off quickly. Very dry and zesty, with high-toned red fruit flavours and a long, mouth-watering finish. Really energetic and interesting, although I can see that this might be a bit too far outside the traditional Garnacha spectrum for everyone. 91Pts
Bodega Marañones ‘Marañones’ 2015
100% Garnacha from 3 plots at 750-850m altitude, with a north-facing aspect. Fermented in large oak vats and then aged for 12 months in 500L French oak barrels. Early harvested grapes (19th August!) 14% ABV
The Vinos de Madrid appellation has gained real recognition in the last few years, with a variety of exciting, nervy and mineral Garnacha’s being produced. One of the very best is undoubtedly the wines of Fernando Garcia Alonso at Bodega Marañones, producing 5 wines from 15, organically cultivated, hectares of land at altitudes between 650-850m. Fernando has gone on to join the much celebrated Comando G project, although I prefer the wines of Bodega Marañones myself.
The palest wine of the evening and definitely the most delicate, with aromas of bright strawberries and cherry, thyme, under-growth and a touch of pepper. Very fresh and structured on the palate, with firm tannins, racy acidity and an incredibly clean, mineral finish. Precise and pure-fruited, the overall ‘Wine of the Night’! 92Pts
Vinos en Voz Baja ‘Costumbres Tinto’ 2015
90% old-vine Garnacha (80-110 years old), 10% Tempranillo from various plots within Rioja Baja. Partial whole-bunch fermentation in oak vats, and aged for 8 months in French oak. 14% ABV
Rioja has an interesting relationship with Garnacha. For a long time, Garnacha was seen as a minor blending component; a way to add some heft and spice to a Tempranillo dominated blend. The majority of the Garnacha is grown further away from the Atlantic coast, in the warmer area of Rioja Baja, which unsurprisingly was also historically associated with lower quality wines. The rise of Garnacha’s popularity, however, has seen this area looked at with a fresh perspective, curious to see what can be eked out of the old bush vines dotted around the vineyards here. Vinos en Voz Baja is a very small project, designed to explore the potential of Rioja Baja, particularly from some of the older, more derelict sites.
A little deeper in colour than a lot of the Garnacha we’ve tried tonight (perhaps the small addition of Tempranillo?) and more classic in style on the nose. Ripe strawberries, damson, smoke, toast, black pepper and dried herbs. Spicy and smoky, yet still fresh and interesting, with nicely integrated oak and a pleasant bite on the finish. A very popular wine and at the asking price of €16, a steal. A great example of just how under-appreciated these wines from Rioja Baja have been! 90Pts
Artadi ‘Pasos de San Martin’ 2015
100% Garnacha from a single village in Navarra, grown at 600m altitude. 35 year old ines. Very little other information given! 14.5% ABV
Navarra shares a border with Rioja, yet historically has grown very different styles of wines, focusing on rosados and light reds. Those days are long gone, however, and whilst Garnacha remains the most planted variety, Tempranillo and other red varieties are playing catch-up. The danger whenever there is a momentum swing, is that old vines get grubbed up in favour of the fashion of the week, and whilst a lot of quality Garnacha has previously been somewhat wasted on large quantities of simple rosado, there are a few producers who are starting to realise the potential for varietal Garnacha red wine here. Enter Artadi, of Rioja fame. Artadi recently purchased a 13 hectare plot of land in the village of San Martin de Ux, with the intention of doing just that.
Another slightly darker Garnacha and intensely aromatic from the start. Bright red fruits, crushed violets, toast and black pepper leap out of the glass; undeniably Garnacha. Probably the softest wine of the evening on the palate, with the fruit coming to the fore and little spice or herbal flavours. Well balanced and tasty, but perhaps lacking the excitement or complexity of the other wines. 89Pts
Bodega Frontonio ‘Telescopico’ Garnacha 2014
100% Garnacha from Valdejalon, Aragon. Fermented and MLF in concrete, then aged for 8 months in 2nd use French oak. 14% ABV
Aragon is the birth-place of Garnacha, so it stands to some reason that the grape thrives here. Warm, dry conditions with old-vines dotted around the country-side makes for an ideal location to produce wines of character and power here, yet it’s only recently that quality has risen and the old co-operatives are being overshadowed by exciting producers. One such is Frontonio, a so-called ‘Garage Wine’, a term usually used on the right-bank of Bordeaux, but particularly apt here as the first was made in their parents garage in 2010! Fernando Mora MW, Francisco Latasa and Mario are now the owners of Bodega Frontonio, one of Aragons most exciting projects and now in full flow, having started with a production of 630 bottles less than 8 years ago.
Medium ruby and very aromatic. Rich, ripe red fruits, baking spices, toast, dried herbs and fresh earth; lovely. This has more tannic structure than any other wine of the evening, ripe and firm, with the same earthy, spicy characteristics as the nose and a long finish. Probably the most complete Garnacha of the evening, a really lovely effort. 92Pts
Vinyes d’en Gabriele ‘Cuvila’ 2013
100% Garnacha from La Figuera, Montsant. Aged for 11 months in 500L French barrels and a further 3 months in concrete. 14.5% ABV
Arguably, the renaissance of Garnacha that has spurred so much of the qualitative improvements across the country started in Montsant and Priorat, in Catalunya. The rebirth of Priorat in particular and the creation of wines such as L’Ermita and Espectacle created a lot of excitement around the world, partly for the inherent quality in the wines, and partly due to the eye-wateringly high prices! It’s now very much at home in the dry, Mediterranean climate of Catalunya, where it’s often found blended with Carignan, but is increasingly seen in varietal form. Vinyes d’en Gabriele is a cellar built in 2001, yet the family has been making wine for over 150 years. Recently Josep Maria Anguera, the current owner, purchased an additional 7 hectares of land in the village of La Figuera, which go into making Cuvila. The Garnacha from this village seems to have a lighter profile, which will become more and more important as time goes on!
Wow, this is very old-school in style! Medium ruby and very characterful on the nose with ripe, brambly fruits, oak spice, vanilla, dried herbs, ferrous earth and more than a touch of barnyard. Full, spicy and powerful on the palate with ripe, soft tannins and a raw, rugged flavour profile. For all that, there’s no sense of heat; it’s all about the flavour. Finishes long and earthy. A beautiful expression of Catalan Garnacha. 93Pts